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Routes in Funk Rock City

Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: H. Loeffler, D. Lutes, N. Strickland
Page Views: 1,247 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A three-star climb that becomes a 4-star classic if started with Hardcore Jollies and lead as a single pitch. It will be quite pumpy if done directly from H.J. without a rest at the ledge.
This climb ascends one of the nicest pocketed overhangs available in the gorge.
According to guidebooks, an alternate approach (easier) is to ascend via the first half of Prime Directive.

Location

Just right of the Headstone Surfer dihedral there is a slightly overhanging, bolted face leading up to a ledge (Hardcore Jollies) and from that ledge a wild overhanging prow with a wide scoop up it's center, perforated by pockets (L'ile Au Ciel).

Protection

7 clips to a 2-bolt anchor, with optional 5moreclips and a longer runner for the H.J. start.
You need a long rope (60m+) to rap to the ground, but a shorter rope can lower you all the way to the ledge, then rap from the H.J. Anchors.

Photos

ikmortu
People's Republic of Chicago
  5.11c
ikmortu   People's Republic of Chicago
  5.11c
Unlike most of the 11's at FRC this climb is consistent mid 11 climbing all the way up, and tough to onsight if linked with HJ.

Very fun 5.11, but a pain in the ass to remove the draws. Apr 14, 2014