Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: H. Loeffler, D. Lutes, N. Strickland
Page Views: 1,392 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006 with updates from EthanC
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A three-star climb that becomes a 4-star classic if started with Hardcore Jollies and lead as a single pitch. It will be quite pumpy if done directly from H.J. without a rest at the ledge.
This climb ascends one of the nicest pocketed overhangs available in the gorge.
According to guidebooks, an alternate approach (easier) is to ascend via the first half of Prime Directive.

Location

Just right of the Headstone Surfer dihedral there is a slightly overhanging, bolted face leading up to a ledge (Hardcore Jollies) and from that ledge a wild overhanging prow with a wide scoop up it's center, perforated by pockets (L'ile Au Ciel).

Protection

7 clips to a 2-bolt anchor, with optional 5moreclips and a longer runner for the H.J. start.
You need a long rope (60m+) to rap to the ground, but a shorter rope can lower you all the way to the ledge, then rap from the H.J. Anchors.

Photos

ikmortu
People's Republic of Chicago
  5.11c
ikmortu   People's Republic of Chicago
  5.11c
Unlike most of the 11's at FRC this climb is consistent mid 11 climbing all the way up, and tough to onsight if linked with HJ.

Very fun 5.11, but a pain in the ass to remove the draws. Apr 14, 2014