Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Hugh Loeffler, Dave Lutes, Neal Strickland 1992
Page Views: 2,773 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A three-star climb that becomes a 4-star classic if started with Hardcore Jollies and lead as a single pitch. It will be quite pumpy if done directly from H.J. without a rest at the ledge.
This climb ascends one of the nicest pocketed overhangs available in the gorge.
According to guidebooks, an alternate approach (easier) is to ascend via the first half of Prime Directive.

Location Suggest change

Just right of the Headstone Surfer dihedral there is a slightly overhanging, bolted face leading up to a ledge (Hardcore Jollies) and from that ledge a wild overhanging prow with a wide scoop up it's center, perforated by pockets (L'ile Au Ciel).

Protection Suggest change

7 clips to a 2-bolt anchor, with optional 5moreclips and a longer runner for the H.J. start.
You need a long rope (60m+) to rap to the ground, but a shorter rope can lower you all the way to the ledge, then rap from the H.J. Anchors.