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Routes in Funk Rock City

Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Hugh Loeffler, 1995
Page Views: 3,742 total · 34/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Generally regarded as one of the best 5.13s at The Red, Appalachian Spring is not your typical jug haul. The route is known for its big moves, in particular 3 successive lunges, each harder than the last. The rest of the climbing is not all that difficult for the grade, but the unbelievable quality & color of the rock make every move enjoyable.

The name is surely a reference to the lush, seepy nature of this wall. Its likely there will be a few wet holds on the route, but its not nearly as bad as its neighbor to the right.

Begin with easy, unprotected moves up to the big ledge. Probably best to leave the belayer on the ground, and pass the stick clip up to the ledge to pre-clip the first bolt. Climb the vertical, sculpted wall right of the bolt line to a bushy and often damp horizontal break. Move back left, to the top of a shallow right-facing dihedral. At this point "Appalachian Spring" heads left. A difficult gaston move above the third bolt is the only difficulty before reaching a horizontal break. Move left and make the first big move to another break. Make another big move, then move right for the third lunge. Now that you're good & pumped, move left and follow brilliant pockets for another 30 feet to the anchor.

Location

Right of a large fenced-off cave is an orange buttress capped by a 10' horizontal roof. Two sport routes climb this buttress, beginning from a large ledge 10' up, and sharing the first two bolts. Appalachian Spring is the left line.

Protection

~8 bolts, 2 BA. Stick clip recommended to clip the first bolt off the ledge. There are a number of long sticks sitting on the ledge.

Photos

camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
Incredibly good route. I definitely second the beta of stickclipping the first bolts after you've scrambled up to the ledge; it's insecure sloping crimps to get to the first bolt. This, like almost all other routes at FRC, recently was rebolted with glue-ins, all by hand, since this is a wilderness area. Many thanks to the folks that took on this task! Nov 14, 2011
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.13a
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.13a
One of the best routes in the red or anywhere for that matter.. Huge dynamic climbing, that leads into a sustained beautiful face climb. Hyper classic. Also if orange juice is getting slammed get on this, it's better and no one hardly does it. Even weeks after doing it I can't get this route out of my head. Dec 9, 2016

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