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Routes in Funk Rock City

Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Neal Strickland, Dave Lutes, 1992
Page Views: 2,376 total, 17/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

Can you say perfect jams? This route has them for sure. The route is the right crack on the stunning pillar. It is immediately right of Cruising Lane. The first half is great hand jams behind a right facing flake. The upper middle section is wider, but casual to a rest. The final section is weird, poorly protected and most often sandy. Nice warm up for the climbing partner who kept you up snoring the night before.

Location

Funk Rock City, right of Cruising Lane

Protection

Hand sized gear mostly, with a fist sized piece or two and some TCUs and tri-cams up high.
Savvy Buik
Chicago, IL
 
Savvy Buik   Chicago, IL
 
The hand crack is sustained and fun if you know how to jam. It may be hard for anyone who isn't so comfortable with jamming and decides to lieback. The top was a little tricky and sandy, but it was a fun dihedral with okay gear placement. Definitely not PG13, though! Oct 10, 2016
BrandonC
Cincinnati, OH
  5.9
BrandonC   Cincinnati, OH
  5.9
This climb is definitely not PG13. Not even close. You have to really look for the gear at the top, but it's all there, if you have the gear. (ie. Aliens, C3's, totems) Good warmup for the other cracks. Apr 6, 2016
Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
Nice, sustained jamming on great rock.

Route is certainly not PG13, so don't let the MP rating deter you. Apr 21, 2014
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.9+
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.9+
This was at least as hard as cruising lane. Goofy up high... fun climb. Nov 22, 2010
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
 
Finger-sized Aliens/Mastercams help with the finish. Oct 17, 2010