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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 589 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

A fun route with a lot of variety, pretty good pro, and interesting climbing most of the way.
Climb up to the ledge and over a small shrub on it, leading left into a good crack system. Protect overhead and jam up and over a small roof on good handcracks (crux, 5.9 or 5.10 depending on hand size). Continue upon interesting mixed cracks at the 5.8 level to encounter discontinuous cracks. Pro is never lacking, as one can go left or right to join the crack of your next choosing as soon as the one you are in runs out. The climbing up top is fun 5.9 and might feel pumpy to climbers who fail to read the sequences immediately. Finish at a bolted anchor and belay or lower to the ground.

Location

This climb ascends the left-most crack system on the East Face of the School Gate rock, this is just left of the large left-facing 5.4 corner system called 'Staircase.' From the ground scramble up from the right (as for the beginning of Staircase) and belay on a ledge 10' up, or down below and left to start the route from the ground.

Protection

A standard rack of cams and stoppers
Anchor is one 316 steel (2011) and one titanium bolt (2016)

Photos

BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
For the best, but slightly harder, variation, start on the crack just to the right of tigers tooth - great jams through a small roof. There is an easier variation that takes the zig zagging hand rack to the left of staircase. The harder variation still feels in the 5.9+ range and is loads of fun. May 23, 2017