Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,149 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Originally named In And Out of the Groove

An incredibly fun sport climb for any venue, and certainly one of the best here. This climb has a little of everything: overhanging jugs, slapping of aretes, hidden pockets, technical footwork, and if you stay belly to the bolts (harder) even some flaring jams. The grade will depend on how directly you do the route, but will be in the 5.11 range.

Climb up past 2 bolts to a technical crux, where a taller climber can clip the third bolt before risking it (be mindful of the rocks behind you). There are at least 2 fully distinct ways of doing the crux left or right, both of which are 5.11.

Continue up and over to a good rest, which is advised, then on up and left. Use a long sling at the bolt above the obvious flake to avoid drag or loading the biner and continue up and left to a spot about 1/2 way up where another route merges and there are 2 bolts side by side. Clip the left one and head directly up through the second crux (insecure jamming or slopers on a bulge, 5.11) or dodge it to the right by the right-most bolt and then back left to continue. A final pumpy crux (hard 5.10) comes just before intercepting the arete up and left, where a rest can be had... then head up and right on the overhanging face with pockets and a horizontal crack to clip the double anchors.

Location

This climb is on the lowest point of the School Gate Rock, starting up out of the Gully on the North side of it's Northeast Arete.

Protection

Titanium (2016/17)

Photos