Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in (1) School Gate
|Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 30 ft|
|Page Views:||43 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Danger on Dec 1, 2013|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionThe holds are mostly good, and yet this climb still feels hard as fuck for the grade.
On a deceivingly overhanging wall, start up from the right side platform. Trust sharp slopers and marginally good crimps to fight your way up to the hump midway using some of the strangest holds you've ever touched - always positive but never quite good enough to stop the feeling of constantly falling off.
The midway hump offers opportunity for a decent rest before the 2nd half, which provides surprisingly good holds that will seem like gifts from God after the first section. An under cling out left lets you move into the inverted trapezoid section. The left edge of the 'zoid is sidepull jugs the whole way while the diagonally angled jugs on the right side are sidepull underclings.
Slip slap your way up using the sides of the otherwise blank face, then grab your huevos and launch for the huge pocket on the top right of the trapezoid. Is it good? yes it is. NOW you can clip! Finish at the anchors on big pockets that just get better and better.
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