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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Ta-Chi Wang
Page Views: 43 total, 1/month
Shared By: Danger on Dec 1, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

The holds are mostly good, and yet this climb still feels hard as fuck for the grade.

On a deceivingly overhanging wall, start up from the right side platform. Trust sharp slopers and marginally good crimps to fight your way up to the hump midway using some of the strangest holds you've ever touched - always positive but never quite good enough to stop the feeling of constantly falling off.

The midway hump offers opportunity for a decent rest before the 2nd half, which provides surprisingly good holds that will seem like gifts from God after the first section. An under cling out left lets you move into the inverted trapezoid section. The left edge of the 'zoid is sidepull jugs the whole way while the diagonally angled jugs on the right side are sidepull underclings.

Slip slap your way up using the sides of the otherwise blank face, then grab your huevos and launch for the huge pocket on the top right of the trapezoid. Is it good? yes it is. NOW you can clip! Finish at the anchors on big pockets that just get better and better.

Location

Right side of the Illusion Wall

Protection

316 steel (2006)

Photos

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BrianWS  
Great description of a stout route! I remember being shocked at how hard this route was in comparison to nearby 11s - very slopey and great stone. Mar 5, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
Now THAT is a route write-up Mr. Danger! Sep 16, 2014