Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 438 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

A climb which will be difficulty and fun-level dependent upon your personal taste and body size. The crux will be fists for some, forearms for others, and stacks for the smallest. The thuggy movement might beg the climber to wait for cooler weather, and the rock texture may encourage the less experienced crack climbers to wait for long-sleeve weather.
Climb a few easy moves to reach the bottom of the dihedral, then jam and thrutch up the fist and off-fist moves (forearm locks for me) through an early crux to reach more mellow climbing above, romping up 5.6 moves with good mid-sized protection to an anchor up and left. While the bottom is great rock and classic climbing - an essential for fist crack, it is over too soon to earn the full 3 stars (classic) that the Robertson book gives it. I'd give it two stars. The nearby route 'Surprise Crack (10a)' is a better route still, and a great warm-up for this one anyway.

Location

The route is the most prominent crack on the East rib of the Disco Buttress. Start off the east ledge/ramp and climb a few feet up a crack and offset to reach a hanging, steep left-facing dihedral.

Protection

Titanium anchor (2016)
Stoppers and cams to 5" for overhead pro, or 4" if you don't mind some space between pieces.

Photos