Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Routes in (1) School Gate
|Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||175 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Jan 1, 2014|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionThis "route" is actually an entire slab that faces directly east towards the ocean. It is a brilliant white block split by many stellar cracks, none as long or consistent as you wish they were.
The right side starts at the lowest point and ascends a sweet hand crack to a rounded slab with a wide horizontal to a ledge. The right side then slabs out to a dirt-filled crack, a stance, and then a face covered in various small cracks. Go straight up to bolt anchors.
The middle and left options ascend significantly easier and more broken cracks to a lower ledge. They then follow two separate but adjacent cracks to just below a roof. You can step left and follow Staircase to the top or go right - try not to get your rope stuck - under and around the roof. Romp up to another set of bolt anchors between Staircase and the right variation.
The grade of 5.7 represents the hardest move amongst all these options, but in general the climbing is a simple, pleasant, plug-and-go kind of fun.