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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Paul Foster (trad)
Page Views: 343 total, 7/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Nov 1, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Use good face holds and horizontals of the face and arete to gain a stance, then tackle an arcing fingercrack to reach the shuts.
Probably 5.10, though both books list it as 5.11c. Much easier than routes of the same grade in the area.

Location

The southeastern arete of the Disco Buttress. Start atop the belay perch for the southern face or traverse in from the main ledge.

Protection

316 steel (2006)

Photos

Feel much easier than 11C which is listed on guidebook except for the start, more like a 10C. Jan 12, 2015
Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
No serious stopper moves like its burlier brother Fight, just a cruxy beginning into sustained arete trickiness the whole way.

Grade can be adjusted to your liking - stick left for tough stuff or wander right if you cant handle the heat. Nov 4, 2014
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Yum Yum's guide also lists it as a sport climb with roughly the same bolt count as it has today.
Matt's book lists it as originally being a gear line, and I remember (incorrectly, perhaps?) the pro being sort of sparse, but pretty solid.
A few other sport lines on this formation are also credited as originally being led on gear (the other 11+ and 12- climbs). Sep 21, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10
For the record, the bottom half of this route was bolted before 1998, so although it could be a "retro" job, it was still done before Deng Rong's crusade mid-2000's. Sep 17, 2014
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Like many of the 'sport' routes in the area, the FA for Piranha was done without the bolts. I'd assume the retro-bolter intended the route as an eliminate, staying on the face left of the arete.

The climbing is certainly more heads-up than most non-bolted lines at LD, but isn't unsafe. The climbing is relaxed when approaching runout territory, and the gear that is there is pretty solid. Jan 6, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10
Top-roped this after leading Fight. This route is definitely much easier, although more continuous and less varied than its neighbor. It can basically be characterized as a series of long reaches from side to side on gigantic holds.

If this route was truly done on trad gear - and not its neighbor, which would obviously go - then it was a ballsy endeavor. The first 20' could only be protected from the first move. The next 15' take gear but would have to be slung around the arete. The next 15' would be run out to the ledge. It seems like the bolter wanted you to take the roof on directly, which would be utterly contrived. Step right, grab the arete, and swing back over. Another short-lived hand crack up the slab makes for an easy victory romp. Jan 2, 2014