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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 403 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Jun 25, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start up the highly-featured slab about 15 feet to the roof. Pull very positive holds to swing a heel hook and surmount the face. From here, you can immediately head up and right, or try to stay directly on the bolt line. The latter is far more challenging, though not 11c as the guidebook suggests. Eventually the holds will disappear on the face though, while the features in the crack diminish as well. The crux is pulling off a small crimp thing, from which you make a simple final move and you're on the ledge.

Beware of wasps!

Location

Second bolt line on the south-facing side of School Gate. To the right of Bull King Dihedral, to the left of Oh!

Rap from the anchor.

Protection

316 steel (2006)

Photos

BrianWS
  5.9
BrianWS  
  5.9
Repeated the route today. God, what a fun climb! Perfect stone, a mini roof, cool features, and great views.

Still comically soft :) May 23, 2017
Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
This should really be separated into two climbs at least.

-staying right is easy, 5.9 ish
-staying on route but using the crack on the right is more interesting(I think 10a sounds right)
-staying on route without using anything on the right the whole time makes for a great slab climb, which is hard for me to rate as I don't climb slab much, but I'd say harder than 10a. Mar 18, 2014
BrianWS
  5.9
BrianWS  
  5.9
Well featured, less than vertical terrain, and body-length bolting. Agreed on the inflated grade, but area numbers are pretty inconsistent in general.

The 5.11 eliminate variation is still in the 5.9+ to 5.10- range, especially if you have experience on slabs. Oct 30, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
I thought it was 5.9-10a. New book says 10c. Okay. May 15, 2012