Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 477 total · 5/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Jun 25, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start up the highly-featured slab about 15 feet to the roof. Pull very positive holds to swing a heel hook and surmount the face. From here, you can immediately head up and right, or try to stay directly on the bolt line. The latter is far more challenging, though not 11c as the guidebook suggests. Eventually the holds will disappear on the face though, while the features in the crack diminish as well. The crux is pulling off a small crimp thing, from which you make a simple final move and you're on the ledge.

Beware of wasps!

Location

Second bolt line on the south-facing side of School Gate. To the right of Bull King Dihedral, to the left of Oh!

Rap from the anchor.

Protection

316 steel (2006)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
I thought it was 5.9-10a. New book says 10c. Okay. May 15, 2012
BrianWS
  5.9
BrianWS  
  5.9
Well featured, less than vertical terrain, and body-length bolting. Agreed on the inflated grade, but area numbers are pretty inconsistent in general.

The 5.11 eliminate variation is still in the 5.9+ to 5.10- range, especially if you have experience on slabs. Oct 30, 2013
Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
This should really be separated into two climbs at least.

-staying right is easy, 5.9 ish
-staying on route but using the crack on the right is more interesting(I think 10a sounds right)
-staying on route without using anything on the right the whole time makes for a great slab climb, which is hard for me to rate as I don't climb slab much, but I'd say harder than 10a. Mar 18, 2014
BrianWS
  5.9
BrianWS  
  5.9
Repeated the route today. God, what a fun climb! Perfect stone, a mini roof, cool features, and great views.

Still comically soft :) May 23, 2017
Elvis Leg
Taipei, TW
Elvis Leg   Taipei, TW
Perhaps the most enjoyable climb in the School Gate area, no matter which route you decide to take. Sep 15, 2018