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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 375 total, 4/month
Shared By: greg k on Dec 13, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

This is/has been/will be the most popular climb at the Dragon Cave. On almost any decent weekend, a school group will be doing laps on it. If you do get the opportunity to get on it, it's a straightforward romp up big features to the top of the first cliff you come upon from the north parking area. It protects well, has a few fun moves in it, and tops out to a beautiful and commanding view of the coastline. This makes for a perfect first climb, or to take an uninitiated friend up, or a free solo warmup... just know that others are thinking the same. Now has two glue-in bolts for top-rope and rappel.

Location

Right-angling weakness on the east face of School Gate. Just to the right of the overhang of Surprise Crack.

Protection

Gear to #3.
316 steel anchor (2011)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.4
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.4
There are now two bolts at the top. Apr 26, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.4
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.4
First climb on my first day at the Dong. The girl who I asked to belay said, with a smirk, "Ah, you're a traditional climber." Watched Matt free solo it - up and down in about five minutes. I'm assuming that included a four-minute view of the scenery.

As for gear, you can place as much or as little as you want, but good placements abound, up to a #3. It can be tricky cleaning your gear if nobody is following, as the rap bolts are located a good three meters from the climbing line. Mar 14, 2011