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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 401 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

A pretty sweet overhanging jug haul with a wall behind you to rest on. Start up easy rock to the overhanging arete. Make strenuous moves on big holds, stemming out onto the wall behind you for rests. After you pull through a juggy undercling, you will stay significantly left of the bolt line. More straightforward cranking and you're at the anchors.

From the anchors, you can easily traverse right and put up a top-rope for Nowhere Man.

Location

Leftmost bolted route on Disco Buttress, after you climb around to the small platform below the south-facing wall

Protection

316 steel (2006)

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
  5.10b
Danger   Taipei City
  5.10b
Stay off the left wall for a 4 star 5.10 sport climb. The closer to the bolt line you stay the harder(& Better) it gets. Feb 19, 2014
BrianWS
  5.10-
BrianWS  
  5.10-
A good warmup for neighboring sport lines. Once, 2 bright green snakes fell out of the groove and into my bag when pulling the rope. Nov 1, 2013