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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Ta-Chi Wang, 1997
Page Views: 251 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Jan 2, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Follows a thin crack all the way to the top of the formation. A powerful bouldery start gives way to fun, varied, moderate climbing. This route could easily be done on trad gear.

Make a series of tough moves to get up and around the overhang. There are probably a few ways to do this, but the crux can be perplexing. Once on the face, use the crack to layback and toe-jam your way up to a juggy flake. Continue up the crack to some pockety rock and a ledge. Follow the diagonal crack through some jumbled rock to another ledge. A tricky slab section protects the anchors directly above, or just step right to the anchors on Disco Fistcrack.

Location

Disco Buttress' east-facing wall, middle-left side. Follows the obvious thin crack.

Protection

Titanium (2016/17)
Gear to 1" (mostly smaller)

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
A roof problem(which is actually a slab problem in disguise) and slab problem separated by fairly cruisy climbing.

The roof problem is a very beta intensive 11c: There are multiple ways to do this in a 5.12 manner, one 11d way to do it, and one rather mystical 11c way to do it which you will probably not figure out until you've cursed the first ascentionist's entire family line two times over.

Consider yourself warned. Dec 6, 2014