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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: P Foster
Page Views: 240 total · 5/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Oct 29, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Technical climbing on mostly good holds. Pass a unique basketball-sized feature and gain the large horizontal below a small overhang (5.11). Pull the lip -careful, the large sculpted feature here moves- and continue through the crux on thin holds, passing two more bolts to the top.

An easier variation, Man of Nowhere (5.11-) climbs the first three bolts then trends left to join the neighboring route (V-Groove, 5.10-), bypassing the crux.

Location

The second bolt line on the south face of Disco buttress. Belay from atop the large boulder with a single bolt for anchoring the belay.

Protection

316 steel (2006)
Easy climbing to the very low first bolt, but the fall here is quite large -- there is a ~15 foot chasm between the starting boulder and face.

Photos

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BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
RP with Kaiven and/or Bala, 200 or 2010. Technical and steep. The large horizontal mid-route provides relief and recovery for the thin crux, or it breaks the flow of otherwise sustained climbing. Perspectives may vary!

The Man of Nowhere variation is a fun linkup. Nov 8, 2013

More About Nowhere Man

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