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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 98 total · 2/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Nov 14, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Scramble up easy rock to the roof about 20 feet up. Surmount the roof with good steep technique, a long reach, or a big ol' throw to a large slot. Establish yourself on the slab using pockets and small face holds, continue up another 10-15 feet to a double bolt anchor.
Even better, continue up the bolt line to the left for a few more bolts worth of easy 5.10 climbing.

Location [Suggest Change]

The first line of bolts to the left of Oh No and Bull King Dihedral. Look for the obvious slot just above the low roof.

Protection [Suggest Change]

316 steel (2006). Double bolt anchors at about 40 feet and 70 feet.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11-
This is a very bouldery route with a very specific sequence. Unfortunately the technical climbing doesn't last long. The climbing above the slab is easy (9ish) but quite fun, although it could easily go on gear as a variation to Bull King Dihedral. Two stars to the slab anchors, three to the top.

On my redpoint, I skipped the second bolt. I found this to make the move much easier and not at all increase the danger of the fall. Dec 1, 2013

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