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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 77 total, 2/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Nov 14, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Scramble up easy rock to the roof about 20 feet up. Surmount the roof with good steep technique, a long reach, or a big ol' throw to a large slot. Establish yourself on the slab using pockets and small face holds, continue up another 10-15 feet to a double bolt anchor.
Even better, continue up the bolt line to the left for a few more bolts worth of easy 5.10 climbing.

Location

The first line of bolts to the left of Oh No and Bull King Dihedral. Look for the obvious slot just above the low roof.

Protection

316 steel (2006). Double bolt anchors at about 40 feet and 70 feet.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11-
This is a very bouldery route with a very specific sequence. Unfortunately the technical climbing doesn't last long. The climbing above the slab is easy (9ish) but quite fun, although it could easily go on gear as a variation to Bull King Dihedral. Two stars to the slab anchors, three to the top.

On my redpoint, I skipped the second bolt. I found this to make the move much easier and not at all increase the danger of the fall. Dec 1, 2013