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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 308 total, 4/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Jan 12, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Scramble up 20 feet to the ledge at the base of Surprise Crack. Clip in, pull long moves up and over the tricky roof, and follow the bolts the double bolt anchor. If you bring a bit of gear, you can continue up over a buldge to the anchors for Surprise Crack or even top off and appreciate the ocean vista.

Location

On the east face of School Gate. Shares the beginning ledge with Surprise Crack, just to the left of Staircase. Instead of going up the crack, crank out the left side of the roof and follow the bolt line up the thin face to the anchor at a ledge 20 feet below the top.

Protection

Titanium (2016/17)
Bring long runners for the first two bolts.

Route can be protected with gear.

Photos

BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Haha, ain't it true... Ever wonder why there are so few trad routes over 5.10+ at LD?

If you check out Yum Yum's book, many of the sport climbs that are now fully bolted were originally mixed. Lots of FA's in the 80's and 90's were done on gear with minimal bolting, including lots of the harder lines around the clock tower area. There was a precedent for mixed climbing, just not a very vocal or strongly defended one.

A large number of the older FAs were done by foreigners (Koreans, Euros, etc), many of whom eventually left. This surely prevented the shitstorm from brewing after their routes were both retro and over bolted. Nov 15, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
I ended up putting two links on one and four on the other, but they are still uneven. There are many other anchors that are bolted unevenly throughout Long Dong, and I have no idea why.

As for the logic of bolting it to the ledge: there is no reason for the route to end in the middle of the wall, there is a convenient ledge above, but the Surprise anchor cannot be used for top-roping this route. There is (almost) no precedent for mixed climbing at Long Dong, although this would be a perfect candidate.

However, there is still no consensus about development ethics here, and so anything done without the consent of the "proper authorities" could stir up a real shit storm... Nov 15, 2013
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
No need for additional bolts, there's plenty of pro after (and before!) the anchors. Climbing to the Surprise Crack anchors is in the 5.9 to easy 5.10 range and well protected.

I remember the funky anchor bolting - did you end up adding links and chain? Nov 14, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
This route should be bolted all the way up to the Surprise Crack ledge. The final bolts would be far to the left of the trad line. The current anchor is two bolts staggered by about a foot... totally stupid. Apr 6, 2013