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Routes in (1) School Gate

Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blackface Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reincarnation S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seaface T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Stepover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-up Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 151 total, 3/month
Shared By: Danger on Mar 31, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Above The Groove is the leftmost climb on Illusion Wall. The Illusion being that the climbs on this wall are steeper than they appear.

Above the Groove starts a bit right of the line for First Corner and quickly joins it. Sustained and sporty, this climb affords little opportunity for rest.

From the platform, an easy first clip protects hidden jugs on a steep face. Juggy flakes and pockets line the climb, but they're never as good as they appear from the ground. Using a surprisingly good arete, gain the insecure horizontal right before the anchors. A monster pocket above the horizontal gives a final bit of respite as you clip the chains.

Location

Illusion Wall - the high, first visible rock face from the school gate approach

Protection

316 steel (2006), titanium anchor (2016)

Photos

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Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
This climb starts from the platform but clipping the first bolt and dropping into the gully is a pretty excellent, natural variation.

It is not the same exact line as First Corner but rather starts to the right of it and then joins it, like an inverted y. Apr 6, 2014
BrianWS  
Does this start down in the same gully as First Corner? Or do you need to scramble up onto the platform, as you do for other routes on Illusion Wall?
As an easier variation, you can chimney/stem (cheating, I guess) through First Corner's 11+/12- crux. This let's you climb the sweet section of huge, juggy flakes that you miss if you start from the platform, plus you get a full-value climb that clocks in at around 5.11/-. Apr 2, 2014