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Routes in Right Section

Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Brimstone Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Improbability Drive T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peregrine, The TR V4-5 6B+ R
Reebok Pump T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
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Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Larry Treiber, Dennis Abink, and Jim Garber 1975
Page Views: 996 total · 9/month
Shared By: KyleKent on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb a series of discontinuous cracks that start on the far right side of the slab. Clip 3 bolts as the cracks end (10+). Optional hanging belay out left with bolt + gear.

Pitch 2: Take cracks out right to top.

Location

This line is on the large, mostly unbroken slab that constitutes the right section. The line sits on the far right side of the slab, just before the blocky cracks of Grody Coyote.

Protection

Small and Medium gear.

Photos

Great climb, a bit spicy, classic GM route. Oct 13, 2009
Joel Longo
Mooresville, NC
 
Joel Longo   Mooresville, NC
 
I agree, a great climb. Some really cool moves through the sustained crux. One of my favorites on the right section. Watch out for the large mostly detached flake by the discontinuous cracks. Oct 20, 2009
I have traversed all the way to the Bleak Streak ledge when the upper crack exit was wet and icy. You can clip the top bolt on Cactus Picker en route. Scary leading or following. Nov 30, 2009
Bobby Treadwell
Prescott, AZ
 
Bobby Treadwell   Prescott, AZ
 
Great route. Can be done in one pitch with a 70 as long as last bolt is extended. Sep 26, 2012
What a route. I was happy and sad to finally clip that first bolt. Happy to be done with all the thin gear and strange climbing below and sad when I saw the spacing of the bolts and the blankness of the face that wandered above. We split the pitch in two and the belay was comfy. Jan 16, 2018

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