Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Larry & Becky Treiber, 1970; FFA: Rusty Baille, David Lovejoy, Mike Acebo, 1971
Page Views: 64 total · 39/month
Shared By: Flex on Jan 29, 2019
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Granite Jungle follows a great series of cracks and offers everything from finger cracks to off-width. Many climbers only climb the first 2 pitches as a nice moderate outing (GM 5.7) and rappel from the base of the last pitch. If you're looking for a stout, old school thrashing then bring some big cams and wriggle up the right leaning squeeze chimney (GM 5.9+) with an OW in the back.
 Start off the nice flat area under a tree immediately right off Dreamweaver and Delphina Lightning Ass. There is a right leaning wide crack/flake that is the standard start, or a thin, left leaning finger crack 30ft to the right that is a variation start.

Pitch 1 has several options, the original line starts in the wide crack (5.6) and continues up that crack system until reaching a small ledge at about 50 ft. and then traverses right to the next crack system. Alternatively, you can start up the thin, finger crack (5.10) to a series of nice finger and hand cracks that lead to a small ledge where the original start traverses right. From here, a sweet handcrack (5.6) leads up and right until it ends below an overhang and a large vegetated ledge above. Reach up to the square cut edge of the overhang and hand traverse left a few moves until you can gain the large ledge system. There is a fixed anchor here consisting of a slung block and a few fixed pins.

Pitch 2 starts at the back of the ledge system on a gorgeous finger crack (5.7) splitting the back wall. Follow this up and right to a corner with excellent moves and protection. The pitch ends on a large ledge and has a fixed anchor of a sling around a bush. This ledge is shared with Chieu Hoi and the last pitches of both routes are directly above.  

Pitch 3 begins directly behind the slung bush and follows the right leaning squeeze chimney and off width. This pitch is only about 50 ft. long and ends on a sloping ledge at a fixed anchor of another slung bush shared with Chieu Hoi.

Descent: You can hike over to the Coke Bottle rappels by walking up and left for a few minutes or make 3 single rope rappels down the route.

Rack: Singles up to a #4 camalot, with extra #3 camalots for the lower section. The crux OW takes #4 & #5 camalots. 

Location

Follow the trail towards the right section from the Front Porch. Just before you reach the face routes, hike up and left to the tree and ledge at the base of Dreamweaver and Granite Jungle.

Protection

Standard Rack, lower and middle section needs extra #3 and 4 camalots. The last pitch protects with #4 and 5 camalots.

Photos

Andrew McQuillen
Prescott, AZ
 
Andrew McQuillen   Prescott, AZ
 
I haven't done the 3rd pitch to this one yet, but I highly recommend doing the first two pitches of Granite Jungle and the last of Cheiu Hoi - it's way more enjoyable than doing the full, direct start to Cheiu Hoi. Jan 29, 2019