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Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Brimstone Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Improbability Drive T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: David Lovejoy and Karl Karlstrom
Page Views: 149 total · 18/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a super cool route unlike any on the mountain unless you combine the last pitch of Magnolia Thunderpussy with a horizontal version of Coke Bottle with a wee bit of awkward hand jamming roofy stuff thrown in. No idea why it's rated 5.7, but that's usually the case for GM ratings -- point is that it's a wild route and, as always, a moderate that you'll want to be comfortable with a lead head on.

Was especially fun to do this right after meeting David at long last and also finally doing Coke Bottle enough to feel reasonable about Karl's knee grinding techniques. Of course, Hanna followed the first pitch by completely avoiding the unprotected horizontal chimney climbing that I chose to do to get to the ledge right below the guillotine proper.

You can do this in one, two or three pitches. I chose 3 to avoid rope drag and to be able to communicate with Hanna. P1 up the easy ramp and into the horizontal chimney. Hanna showed that this can be easily climbed by stemming between the top of the ramp and the right wall, but it's a bit heady. P2 goes deep into the cave like system and then stems up the back recess using all three walls to surmount the guillotine flake, which really does feel like a guillotine (don't fall on it!). I belayed on a nice ledge above so I could look down into the cave. P3 is just a short thrutchy roof move with solid hand jams. Awkward and airy. It puts you on top of the feature and right above Guicco Piano. Descend with an easy walk off the far right. The trail can only get better with use.

Location [Suggest Change]

Far right of the crag, just to the left of Jump Back Jack Crack and well to the right of Grody Coyote -- approach from Grody by scrambling up and over a big granite ledge. We've all done some good brush clipping on that side of the mtn now, but not completely.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Not much. I used one or two medium to large pieces on the first pitch, down low to protect an unexpected slip, then nothing. A few medium to large ones while going up the hidden flake and then a few for the last roof.

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Greg Opland    
Always thought that was a cool route. Don't think it gets done too often, but maybe more nowadays. People are doing more obscure stuff, it seems like. Oct 10, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Yes, there's been a bunch of us "regulars" of late who are venturing into the routes that are below the "classic" tier, but still wonderful. I did this one only because Gabe recommended it as being his favorite moderate on the mountain -- figured it'd be a fun one for Hanna who was up there that day. It was, but I have to admit that the way I did it was probably a lot harder than the moderate promised. That is, horizontal chimneying just doesn't feel moderate to me. Maybe to Karl ... and others. Well, I guess my knees were kinda bruised and battered from ascents up Coke Bottle the previous two weekends. Oct 10, 2017
A fun route. A much shorter version of "Inner Passage" down in the Stronghold. You can fiddle nuts in down low and some medium pieces for the remainder of the route. 5.7 exit at the top but super short. Jan 16, 2018

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