Avg: 3.4 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||David Lovejoy and Karl Karlstrom|
|Page Views:||964 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||arjunmh on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman|
Was especially fun to do this right after meeting David at long last and also finally doing Coke Bottle enough to feel reasonable about Karl's knee grinding techniques. Of course, Hanna followed the first pitch by completely avoiding the unprotected horizontal chimney climbing that I chose to do to get to the ledge right below the guillotine proper.
You can do this in one, two or three pitches. I chose 3 to avoid rope drag and to be able to communicate with Hanna. P1 up the easy ramp and into the horizontal chimney. Hanna showed that this can be easily climbed by stemming between the top of the ramp and the right wall, but it's a bit heady. P2 goes deep into the cave like system and then stems up the back recess using all three walls to surmount the guillotine flake, which really does feel like a guillotine (don't fall on it!). I belayed on a nice ledge above so I could look down into the cave. P3 is just a short thrutchy roof move with solid hand jams. Awkward and airy. It puts you on top of the feature and right above Guicco Piano. Descend with an easy walk off the far right. The trail can only get better with use.