Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: p1, Bob Dubois, Jim Gaun, Rand Black (RB) '84, p2 Jimmy Symans, Cameron K '87, p3 Brian Sarni, RB '84
Page Views: 1,296 total · 9/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

p1, follows the arete right of Adam's Rib's start (the 3 star pitch). Burly face moves originally rated 5.10+ by the sandbag FA team, repeats put the grade at 5.11. Belay same as p1 Adam's Rib. p2 aka "the junkyard" was added as an after thought and crosses Adam's rib trending toward the top of pitch 1 of Falling Ross. Runout and easily avoided 10-R climbing (do p2 Adam's Rib!). p3, a thin aid line was freed by Sarni and is hard (left of Adam's rib arete).

Location

Right of Adam's Rib, starts right off ground at corner. Drop 2 stars if considering the second pitch.

Protection

small to small camming units, bolts.

Photos

As of December 25th, 2010 I have replaced half the bolts on Pitch 1, and finished on the 27th. Pitch 2 (The Junkyard) will have to wait for next season to be replaced. I have done Pitch 2, and the bolts are horrid (especially 1), but when they are replaced the line does not warrant an 'R' rating. Nov 13, 2009
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.12 PG13
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.12 PG13
10++/5.11 moves off the deck get you started. Sustained, thoughtful, delicate face climbing past well-spaced glue-ins (thanks Kyle!) and a few cruxy bits gets you to a gear belay in an scoop (.5 camalot or a bunch of small stoppers/cams). Go right up the crack to the end of Adam's Rib/The Unicorn past two bolts on the blunt arete to a belay at the base of Dreamweaver's final pitch.
Alternate ways to finish the face are: "The junkyard" - 3 (new) bolts following a right angling system (5.10) or "Jimmys variation" [see Cramer guide] which climbs a cool horizontal quartz dike leftwards to meet up with the end of Falling Ross. (5.7ish R).
The final pitch is harder (12b) but protects well with brass and a few C3s if you can hang in to place them. Bring a double set of small wires, and join the end of Dreamweaver to the top. Oct 29, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Thin, delicate, sustained. I whined. Nov 13, 2017