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Routes in Right Section

Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: p1, Bob Dubois, Jim Gaun, Rand Black (RB) '84, p2 Jimmy Symans, Cameron K '87, p3 Brian Sarni, RB '84
Page Views: 1,117 total, 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

p1, follows the arete right of Adam's Rib's start (the 3 star pitch). Burly face moves originally rated 5.10+ by the sandbag FA team, repeats put the grade at 5.11. Belay same as p1 Adam's Rib. p2 aka "the junkyard" was added as an after thought and crosses Adam's rib trending toward the top of pitch 1 of Falling Ross. Runout and easily avoided 10-R climbing (do p2 Adam's Rib!). p3, a thin aid line was freed by Sarni and is hard (left of Adam's rib arete).

Location

Right of Adam's Rib, starts right off ground at corner. Drop 2 stars if considering the second pitch.

Protection

small to small camming units, bolts.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Thin, delicate, sustained. I whined. Nov 13, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
10++/5.11 moves off the deck get you started. Sustained, thoughtful, delicate face climbing past well-spaced glue-ins (thanks Kyle!) and a few cruxy bits gets you to a gear belay in an alcove (.5 camalot or a bunch of small stoppers/cams). Go right up the crack to the end of Adam's Rib/The Unicorn past two bolts on the blunt exposed arete to a belay at the base of Dreamweaver's final pitch.
Alternate ways to finish the face are:
"The junkyard" - 3 runout ticking timebombs
Or
"Jimmys variation" [see Cramer guide] which climbs a cool horizontal quartz dike leftwards to meet up with the end of Fallig Ross. 5.6ish R

The final pitch is hard (12b) but protects well with brass and a few C3s (green is the money piece!). Bring a double set of brass, and follow the end of Dreamweaver to the top. Oct 29, 2017
As of December 25th, 2010 I have replaced half the bolts on Pitch 1, and finished on the 27th. Pitch 2 (The Junkyard) will have to wait for next season to be replaced. I have done Pitch 2, and the bolts are horrid (especially 1), but when they are replaced the line does not warrant an 'R' rating. Nov 13, 2009