Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: p1, Bob Dubois, Jim Gaun, Rand Black (RB) '84, p2 Jimmy Symans, Cameron K '87, p3 Brian Sarni, RB '84
Page Views: 1,388 total · 10/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

P1: Challenging moves off the deck get you started. Sustained, thoughtful, delicate face climbing past well-spaced glue-ins (thanks Kyle!) and a few cruxy bits gets you to a gear belay in an scoop (.5 camalot or a bunch of small stoppers/cams). (120 feet, 5.11b)
P2: Couple options:-Follow the crack out right to the blunt arete with two bolts past two bolts (P2 of Adams Rib) belay on ledge . Reccomended. (60 feet, 5.10)-"The junkyard"- 3 (new) bolts following a right angling system (5.10)-"Jimmys variation" [see Cramer guide] which climbs a cool horizontal quartz dike leftwards to meet up with the end of Falling Ross. (5.7 R)  P3: The final pitch climbs the offset seam/thin crack on the right end of the Froggy Bottom ledge. Challenging laybacking, but protects well with brass and a few C3s if you can hang in to place them. Bring a double set of small wires, and join the end of Dreamweaver to the top. (60 feet, 5.12b)

Location

Clean face with glue-in bolts right of Adam’s Rib/ the Coke Bottle 

Protection

Draws, cams from micro to fingers and some micro wires. 

Photos

As of December 25th, 2010 I have replaced half the bolts on Pitch 1, and finished on the 27th. Pitch 2 (The Junkyard) will have to wait for next season to be replaced. I have done Pitch 2, and the bolts are horrid (especially 1), but when they are replaced the line does not warrant an 'R' rating. Nov 13, 2009
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Thin, delicate, sustained. I whined. Nov 13, 2017