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Routes in Right Section

Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Marty Woerner and John Diaz
Page Views: 2,096 total, 19/month
Shared By: Kyle J. Kent on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

First bolted line to the right of Chieu Hoi.

Pitch 1: The crux is getting to the first bolt (10+). Follow bolts up to a bolted belay.
Pitch 2: Move into a crack on the right and follow it up to a right leaning crack/seam (small nut placements). Follow this to another bolted anchor.
Pitch 3: Follow a couple bolts and cracks (two options: left 5.10, right 5.8) to the top and a bolted anchor.

Descent: Walk off the right side or rappel (can be done with one 70m in 3 raps).

This climb is continuous movement on small holds. Expect some space inbetween bolts and bring a couple smaller cams/nuts.

Location

Right section, on the slab.

Protection

Bolts mostly. Expect them to be spaced 15-20 feet and making hard moves above them.

Photos

David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
The route used to be a very nice 5.9(R) back in 1980 before a crucial flake broke off on the starting move off the ground. I would concur with the 10+ rating now. Jun 25, 2015
KyleKent  
 
Was calling it 10+ because of Bill Cramer's topo. I agree, that is a bit too high of a grade for this route compared to other GM climbs. Dec 22, 2010
Robin like the bird
mountain center ,CA
Robin like the bird   mountain center ,CA
10 plus??? I'm not sure if this route goes at that grade, especially compared to other GM routes. Feb 28, 2010