Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Marty Woerner and John Diaz
Page Views: 2,241 total · 18/month
Shared By: Kyle J. Kent on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

First bolted line to the right of Chieu Hoi.

Pitch 1: The crux is getting to the first bolt (10+). Follow bolts up to a bolted belay.
Pitch 2: Move into a crack on the right and follow it up to a right leaning crack/seam (small nut placements). Follow this to another bolted anchor.
Pitch 3: Follow a couple bolts and cracks (two options: left 5.10, right 5.8) to the top and a bolted anchor.

Descent: Walk off the right side or rappel (can be done with one 70m in 3 raps).

This climb is continuous movement on small holds. Expect some space inbetween bolts and bring a couple smaller cams/nuts.

Location

Right section, on the slab.

Protection

Bolts mostly. Expect them to be spaced 15-20 feet and making hard moves above them.

Photos

Robin like the bird
mountain center ,CA
Robin like the bird   mountain center ,CA
10 plus??? I'm not sure if this route goes at that grade, especially compared to other GM routes. Feb 28, 2010
KyleKent  
 
Was calling it 10+ because of Bill Cramer's topo. I agree, that is a bit too high of a grade for this route compared to other GM climbs. Dec 22, 2010
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
The route used to be a very nice 5.9(R) back in 1980 before a crucial flake broke off on the starting move off the ground. I would concur with the 10+ rating now. Jun 25, 2015