Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alex McGuffy, Mike Lawson, Paul Davidson 1981
Page Views: 329 total · 23/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Dec 18, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Immediately left of Chieu Hoi is a red right-facing corner. This is the start of Brimstone. P1 is a little overgrown but if it weren't for the tree blocking a good view of it, the pitch would probably see more traffic. P2 is serious.

P1: climb corner to a small ledge with oak tree (squeeze past tree). Climb the steep corner/crack to the big ledge where p1 of Granite Jungle finishes. (5.10)
P2: from the right side of the ledge, climb the sweet arete which has a seam running up it. Then climb easy ground to the ledge where p2 of Granite Jungle finishes. (5.10+)

Choose your adventure to the top or rap.
Linking this with crack n up would create one of the more serious outings the Mtn.. gnarly!

Location

Between Granite Jungle & Chieu Hoi

Protection

Single rack to #2 or 3 and small wires

P1 is well protected, Pitch 2 is serious and the crux moves are well above gear that might very well not hold (didn't test them thankfully). This pitch might be "x". However the climbing is worthwhile and if you don't want to spook yourself it's easy to TR it from the Chieu Hoi/Granite Jungle ledge.

Photos

Jed Alan  
 
thanks for posting this...I sometimes wonder with some of these really good pitches if it wouldn't break the ethic too much to stick a bolt or two in there just so this classic stuff actually gets climbed. I feel the same with Crack'n up. Which is an awesome continuation off the top of this route. Jan 31, 2018
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.10+
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.10+
I hear ya. If the first ascentionists gave the "ok" I'd be all for it. On the other hand, part of the beauty of these routes is that no one does them and when someone does, they're forced to appreciate the boldness of those who came before us. Jan 31, 2018
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Tons of stuff anyone can do, why bolt down the route just so everyone can do it. Personally, getting good enough physically and mentally to do these older routes. Over the years I have had to up my game to climb many of the old Steve Grossman routes. These stay with me unlike 90% of the sport lines I put up or do that another did. Granite Mtn. is what it is because it is old school. Just a perspective from a guy who has put up hundreds of lines anyone can dog their way up. Love your comment GabrielKoybz. Jan 31, 2018
Jed Alan  
 
I appreciate your responses. Well put... That said, even with a well placed bolt or two these routes I'm referring to would remain very bold by any normal standard... Still I pretty much agree that it ought to just stay the same. Dec 13, 2018
Greg Opland    
Really brings it into focus when you consider these guys were wearing clunky old shoes with way less sticky rubber, worse gear, and didn't have the benefit of super focused training in climbing gyms. Also, it's entirely possible to TR the scary stuff if you want a sample and are wondering what it's like. No new bolts. Some places need to remain the way they were and are, and this is one of them. IMO, of course. Dec 18, 2018
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.10+
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.10+
Totally agree Greg, but haven’t pins been replaced by bolts at GM already? The traverse on Coatumundi for example I think used to have 2 pitons in the beginning (Rand Black topo) and now has two SS bolts instead . Just thoughts to ponder I suppose. I wonder how much a bolt in place of a now-corroded knifeblade would change the character of a route. On the FA of Crack N Up the piton was certainly in better condidtion..
kinda playing devils advocate but I also think these are good conversations to have and I’m always wondering what sorta input the FA party would contribute if they read these comments.

Im definitely against adding bolts where there’s never been anything fixed before.period. But I’m still unsure where I stand about replacing old pins with hardware that will last. Dec 18, 2018
Really cool route. Whew, that arête had me thinking. I waited years to lead it. One of the more fun, yet serious linkups I’ve done was this route to crack n up. My kind of fun for sure. No bolts on this would be my preference, though I’m with Gabe as to wondering if more solid hardware is ok to replace a shit knife blade such as the one on crack n up. Maybe I didn’t have the right gear...... Dec 31, 2018