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Routes in Right Section

Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Chris Revely and Ajax Greene 1976
Page Views: 1,178 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jake Hutchins on Nov 13, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

This is a great hidden pitch above the third pitches of Granite jungle and Chieu Hoi. Climb the thin right facing corner past a fixed nut, then get ready for the business. follow a thin crack up a sloping ledge (funky), then pull a little roof with really thin fingers and bust to the top. Lots of fun and well protected, link it up with Granite Jungle or Chieu Hoi.

Location

Up the ramp from the top of Granite Jungle

Protection

gear up to 2'' small nuts and cams very helpful

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
no more fixed nuts Nov 20, 2017
Paul, I meant anything to the right of the flying buttress, although it seemed like I said on the right side of the buttress. We did Dreamweaver all the way through then walked up to Sly's Idea. I simply meant it is a short walk over to add a pitch when you top out on the right side somewhere. Nov 13, 2009
Yes, DLA is probably the most direct and best way to get there.

I think now that what Kyle was trying to say was you can access it from any climb on the cliff's right side. As I recall, you can probably get to this by walking down from above. It's on one of the small upper headwalls?

It's no where near the Flying Buttress, in terms of linked pitches. Nov 11, 2009
Kyle, off the flying buttress ?
Maybe if you went down Coke Bottle, then up Deep Yogurt you'd be able to access it, but the pitch is really up above Chue Hoi. Don't see how you'd access that off of the FB. What am I missing? Oct 22, 2009
Spectacular pitch. Good pro, great movement. Use this to make almost any route on the right side of the flying buttress 1 pitch longer. Recommended. Oct 21, 2009
Excellent climb.

Steve Grossman and I were told about this by Scott Baxter and thought we were bagging the first ascent in spring of '76. Even named it, Upon Bathing at Baxter's. Alas, we'd been scooped by a couple of months (weeks?) by those Colorado boys.

There didn't use to be a fixed nut on it :-)

I don't think this climb seems much traffic.
It's a bit hidden but well worth your effort to seek it out.

I think a day of cool obscurity would be to climb Deep Yogurt and then see if you couldn't get to this as a finish. Might be too far apart. Nov 13, 2008