Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, Herb North Jr. , 1981
Page Views: 391 total · 11/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Scramble up 4th class terrain for about 50 ft, tending right to a large and slightly sloping ledge at the base of an obvious wide crack.

P1: Climb this burly GM 5.9 OW crack to a small ledge, then climb another 10 ft of wide hand crack and exit right to a stance on a sloping ledge immediately to the left of the "Guillotine" chimney/flake (finger size pieces & smaller for belay).

P2: Traverse left on large flake (sketchy looking but solid) to the blunt arete. Place some pro, then climb somewhat grainy rock up the arete/face and then left to meet an easy wide crack. Follow this until under large roof, then traverse left underneath roof until you can belay at a stance on another sloping ledge just past the beginning of the final handing dihedral. Watch for suspect rock throughout this pitch (5.9 R). Alternately, climb "Guillotine" to avoid this heady pitch.

P3: Climb up the short but steep and perplexing dihedral using your bag of tricks. The money pitch. This is the corner that is formed by what looks like an upside-down boot from a distance.

Location

About 150 ft left of the start of Guillotine. Just right of the gully where "Grody coyote" begins.Follow the Cramer guide! P1 was out of view from the opening scramble.

Protection

Standard GM rack.
Some wide stuff for P1. C3s and small/tiny stoppers for P3. In-between sizes for belays and whatnot.

Photos