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Routes in Right Section

Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Brimstone Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Improbability Drive T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peregrine, The TR V4-5 6B+ R
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, Herb North Jr. , 1981
Page Views: 118 total · 11/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Scramble up 4th class terrain for about 50 ft, tending right to a large and slightly sloping ledge at the base of an obvious wide crack.

P1: Climb this burly GM 5.9 OW crack to a small ledge, then climb another 10 ft of wide hand crack and exit right to a stance on a sloping ledge immediately to the left of the "Guillotine" chimney/flake (finger size pieces & smaller for belay).

P2: Traverse left on large flake (sketchy looking but solid) to the blunt arete. Place some pro, then climb somewhat grainy rock up the arete/face and then left to meet an easy wide crack. Follow this until under large roof, then traverse left underneath roof until you can belay at a stance on another sloping ledge just past the beginning of the final handing dihedral. Watch for suspect rock throughout this pitch (5.9 R). Alternately, climb "Guillotine" to avoid this heady pitch.

P3: Climb up the short but steep and perplexing dihedral using your bag of tricks. The money pitch. This is the corner that is formed by what looks like an upside-down boot from a distance.

Location

About 150 ft left of the start of Guillotine. Just right of the gully where "Grody coyote" begins.Follow the Cramer guide! P1 was out of view from the opening scramble.

Protection

Standard GM rack.
Some wide stuff for P1. C3s and small/tiny stoppers for P3. In-between sizes for belays and whatnot.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Gabe definitely pulled out an impressive bag of tricks to onsight this amazing looking route! No hands rests, stemming almost upside down, palm smears, leg crosses, who knows what else! Way to go. Hanna and I climbed "Guillotine" in parallel and then got back down in time to watch the show on the money pitch of this route. Looking down into that crazy dihedral from above was especially impressive. The first OW pitch sounded especially heinous and it would be a cool diversion to enter the cave system of Guillotine to avoid the runout and scary second pitch. Easy to traverse over to the base of the money pitch from near the top of Guillotine (just below the final, small roof exit if you know that route). Oct 10, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Photo taken from the base of "Grody Coyote", by the way. Was a great lunch time show for us! Oct 10, 2017

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