Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Baxter and Karl Karlstrom, March 1971
Page Views: 3,097 total · 20/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Chieu Hoi is a really nice moderate line with some attention-getting moves awaiting you on the third pitch. Start climbing in a corner system just left of the big face.

Pitch 1) Nice corner. Climb corner (5.4) to small alcove belay.

Pitch 2) Continue in corner (5.7) up to a nice ledge system below a big offwidth (Granite Jungle) and a small seam that heads up and right.

Pitch 3) Climb up and right in slippery corner and crack that goes vertical. When you get to a horizontal crack, move left using the horizontal (crux) to gain a ledge and belay. The crux moves will shed light on why the translation of the route's name is "open arms" in Vietnamese.

Descent: Scramble up to the top from the last belay. You can then do the Coke Bottle raps, or the walk off down the right side of the Mountain.

Location

The starts at the bottom of the first corner system just left of the big face section on the right side of Granite Mountain.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I remember the horizontal crack exit section always to be engaging for the grade. Pretty classic. Mar 13, 2007
Joe Dawson
  5.10c/d PG13
Joe Dawson  
  5.10c/d PG13
This is a fun climb with good pro. The ratings of the pitches on the above description and in the guidebook are a joke. The first two pitches go at about 5.8 and the 3rd pitch felt like 5.10c/d to me. I think it is important to mention this sandbagging so someone does not get in over his head.

Important Note: The 3rd pitch is only 30 feet long. While the dihedral goes up quite a way, the horizontal crack you traverse left on is about 30 feet above the large belay ledge. In the Falcon guide all of the pitches are drawn such that they look about the same length. Not so, the first two pitches are about 80 feet and the last pitch is about 30 feet.

As of December 2008 there were slings and rap rings around a tree on the belay ledge at the end of the second pitch. I am fairly sure a double rope rap with 60M ropes would get you to the ground with rope to spare if you did not want to do the 3rd pitch. Dec 9, 2008
An excellent variation to the third pitch on this is to continue to follow the crack up and right from the top of the dihedral where you would normally make the Chue Hoi move out left to exit. It becomes a seam with some sparse pro and is similar to Walk Soft (decent but crispy flakes.)

I believe we broke that variation into two pitches. Seems like it was a belay out at the end corner.

I don't recall who did the FA or the name (Crack Up or something like that because that's apparently what the first ascent used for protection, I think RPs and wires worked for me.)

It's a stellar pitch if you like somewhat run out face climbing protected by tricky gear.

BTW - isn't there also a tree at the top of the first pitch of Granite Jungle so you can always bail with just a single rope ? Dec 9, 2008
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.9-
Chris M   Hailey, ID
  5.9-
2 single rope (60m) rappels down Granite Jungle from the tree will get you to the ground if you don't want to do the 3rd pitch. 3rd pitch is classic Granite Mountain 5.9 climbing- not to be missed. Oct 17, 2009
DaveF Farkas
Durango, CO
DaveF Farkas   Durango, CO
I remember doing this climb in '94...superb. I cannot remember any 5.10+ moves although it's been a while. Classic old school area with old school ratings. Leave it that way. Oct 10, 2010
Miguel D
SLC
Miguel D   SLC
I'd say the first pitch is about 5.6 and the second about 5.7, though they are so easily linked (we did it accidentally) that you might as well just go to the belay alcove at the base of the third pitch and call it one 5.7 pitch. We used just over 30m of rope for the first two pitches, easily linked. The third is indeed pretty short.

For pro, you'll need up to a #2 for the first two, with an optional #3 right at the beginning. For P3 you'll need a few small pieces no bigger than a #.75. You can get some solid small nut placements in the first half of P3, they'll take up less of that precious space in the crack that you'll need for your hands Aug 26, 2015
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.9
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.9
Another great way to finish this route is via "Black Magic" 5.9
Follow the bolts on the face out right from the belay on the large ledge before p3. Exciting delicate run-out face climbing typical of GM Nov 20, 2017
SummitSender
  5.10-
SummitSender  
  5.10-
P1: 5.6
P2: 5.7
p3: 5.10 or GM (5.9-)
Classic For Sure! Jan 8, 2018
Andrew McQuillen
Prescott, AZ
 
Andrew McQuillen   Prescott, AZ
 
Fantastic climbing on the third pitch! I drew the short straw and followed that pitch. Can't wait to go back and lead it. Sep 7, 2018
Andrew McQuillen
Prescott, AZ
 
Andrew McQuillen   Prescott, AZ
 
We did the first two pitches of Granite Jungle by climbing a crack around the corner and to the left from the actual start. This kept the climbing on those pitches more sustained at 5.6-7 and provided more enjoyable climbing to access the crux corner. I definitely recommend doing it this way.

There's also a hidden rap anchor on the first bush up and right after pulling out of crux so you can rap the rope with a single 60 m Dec 2, 2018