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Routes in Right Section

Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Brimstone Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Improbability Drive T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peregrine, The TR V4-5 6B+ R
Reebok Pump T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 298 total · 14/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Jan 13, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

If memory serves correctly, this is one of the more committing pitches I've ever embarked on.

Climb up the final corner of Cheiu Hoi until you reach a flake feature. I recall the last good gear being here...there was a nest that someone had likely bailed off of. Out right in the dyke there is hopefully still a fixed knifeblade piton of unknown length hammered to the hilt. After clipping this, engage in moves that get increasingly difficult the further away from the pin you get. I recall looking at a large arc of rope running back to the pin as I tried to put in a grey TCU. It bent over sideways when I tried to place it because the crack was too small and I was so desperate.

Clipping the cam back to my harness I looked forward, then back, then forward. I didn't think I could reverse the moves so I continued, thinking it would get easier. At some point I'm sure it does, but I can't remember if there is any more gear or not. Perhaps a tiny stopper would've fit in one of those strange placements in the dyke. All I remember is hard face climbing and feeling as though I'd take the ride of my life if I fell. If the pin blew, without exaggeration I remember thinking I would have taken an 80-footer back down into the corner. I would love to hear other peoples' stories about this pitch to see if it's like I remember it, or if it's not so bad. Amazing, committing climbing is what I remember!

Location

Branching out right onto the black dyke further up the final pitch of Cheiu Hoi

Protection

Standard to tiny

Photos

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Jed Alan  
 
I've never lead this pitch but I have followed it and it is as you remember. It is yet another super classic pitch at the mountain...right there with the best...but you're right it is serious and dangerous. Sep 6, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
led this pitch the other day. It is really good, but it's a No-Fall pitch with one suspect knife blade for the 5.10 (Mtn. 10) climbing . you can get a good piece at the top of the pitch after the crux as a directional for your partner, but thats it. not for people who think they might fall on strenuous 10c face climbing; there is risk of seriously ripping the pin and factoring onto the belay (if you stopped to belay at the flake - doing it as one long pitch from the Chieu Hoi ledge is probably a better idea). There are few pitches that I climb (esp. @ the Mtn) where I think "this is probably the only time ill ever lead this".. this is one of those. however, its exciting , quality climbing and the corner that leads to it is stellar.
I had a very similar experience to the route description. a memorable one for sure!


FA Chris Reveley & Ajax Greene 1976 Sep 26, 2017
Jed Alan  
 
One bolt out there half way to the pin would really make this a much more user-friendly route without affecting the wild, hard-man nature of it too much...Just Sayin'...and I'm pretty into the ethic of not having bolts all over the place here. Might make the difference between someone taking a giant bone-crushing 80 footer into the corner, or someone taking only a super scary 40 footer not so hard into the corner or even just into space. It's just that its so good, seems like it would be cool if it were climbed more...maybe not though. Jan 31, 2018

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