Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 338 total · 14/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Jan 13, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

If memory serves correctly, this is one of the more committing pitches I've ever embarked on.

Climb up the final corner of Cheiu Hoi until you reach a flake feature. I recall the last good gear being here...there was a nest that someone had likely bailed off of. Out right in the dyke there is hopefully still a fixed knifeblade piton of unknown length hammered to the hilt. After clipping this, engage in moves that get increasingly difficult the further away from the pin you get. I recall looking at a large arc of rope running back to the pin as I tried to put in a grey TCU. It bent over sideways when I tried to place it because the crack was too small and I was so desperate.

Clipping the cam back to my harness I looked forward, then back, then forward. I didn't think I could reverse the moves so I continued, thinking it would get easier. At some point I'm sure it does, but I can't remember if there is any more gear or not. Perhaps a tiny stopper would've fit in one of those strange placements in the dyke. All I remember is hard face climbing and feeling as though I'd take the ride of my life if I fell. If the pin blew, without exaggeration I remember thinking I would have taken an 80-footer back down into the corner. I would love to hear other peoples' stories about this pitch to see if it's like I remember it, or if it's not so bad. Amazing, committing climbing is what I remember!

Location

Branching out right onto the black dyke further up the final pitch of Cheiu Hoi

Protection

Standard to tiny

Photos

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Jed Alan  
 
I've never lead this pitch but I have followed it and it is as you remember. It is yet another super classic pitch at the mountain...right there with the best...but you're right it is serious and dangerous. Sep 6, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
led this pitch the other day. It is really good, but it's a No-Fall pitch with one suspect knife blade for the 5.10 (Mtn. 10) climbing . you can get a good piece at the top of the pitch after the crux as a directional for your partner, but thats it. not for people who think they might fall on strenuous 10c face climbing; there is risk of seriously ripping the pin and factoring onto the belay (if you stopped to belay at the flake - doing it as one long pitch from the Chieu Hoi ledge is probably a better idea). There are few pitches that I climb (esp. @ the Mtn) where I think "this is probably the only time ill ever lead this".. this is one of those. however, its exciting , quality climbing and the corner that leads to it is stellar.
I had a very similar experience to the route description. a memorable one for sure!


FA Chris Reveley & Ajax Greene 1976 Sep 26, 2017