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Routes in Right Section

Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Karl Karlstrom, Scott Baxter, Rusty Baillie, Feb. 1972 Direct Var: Karlstrom, Baxter, Feb. 1972
Page Views: 2,913 total, 22/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Mar 9, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

I was worked by this "odub", and had to bail off high on the pitch using my #6 Friend and a sling. It was great!

This is a single pitch of un-relenting OW. Two different starts are available. The one on the left looks harder than the one I chose on the right. While potentially easier, the rope seems to run over a sharp-ish edge when leading the right start, and some crumbly footing. Both starts are about 4.5 inch cams or so. After that, it gets a bit wider & squeeze.

If you have to shamelessly bail like I did, you can easily lower from the top to get your anchor gear back.

Location

Sweet offwidth at the far right side of the crag. Go all the way right (some moderate bushwhacking could be involved) past the "right side slab climbs". This will be obvious. OW at the far right, almost at the cliff's end.

Protection

Bring the complete OW arsenal. I brought 2 x 4s, 2 x 4.5s (old camalot sizes), a green size big bro, a 6 friend, and some slings. Even with this had to bail high up on the pitch because I didn't have enough big stuff. If you have to lead this, I would suggest bringing at least two cams in the 6 friend realm, and possibly big bro one size higher than green. There was an old looking bolt a little bit higher than where I got to, not sure why (a #5-6 cam would fit there easily?!).

Photos

GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
The Bolt halfway up is new and confidence-inspiring (thanks to whoever replaced it). One #4,one #5,two modern #6s, one quickdraw and good cam-bumping technique will keep you safely on top-rope essentially to the top. Bring more if this aint your style (and bring some stuff for a gear anchor at the top). The left (direct) start is awesome and definitely the hardest climbing on the pitch.

Lots of respect for the folks who led this thing back in the day on end-wise bongs and whatnot... BADASS. Oct 8, 2017
Mack Johnson  
 
I led this in November 1978 with Andrew Embick. I had just left the Valley after weeks of cracks, many fat. We did the right-hand start, past the bolt which I remember was a 3/8" (unusual at the time),and exited left before the final bulge on some 5.9ish face weirdness. Andy figured it was as hard as Twilight Zone; one of my hardest offwidth routes ever.
We had no cams at all! #1-3 Friends came out around hen, but I never saw one until 1979. I used #10 and 11 hexes, a sling on the pillar, the bolt, #4-5-1/2 inch Chouinard Tube Chocks, and maybe one hand-placed bong endwise. 8-}
Karl Karlstrom was one rugged rockmaster. Nov 13, 2016
I believe it's longer than 90 feet. Our 70M didn't quite reach the ground. Definitely strenuous for the grade. Stays sunny all day. It was perfect yesterday, even a little warm. If you like wideness this is the one for you. Dec 22, 2012
A sustained, wonderful OW experience. Expect most of the climbing to be very strenuous. There are good rests inbetween the crux OW sections.

I brought 3 #4, 5, and 6 camalots. Make sure to save 1 #6 for the top crux (sloping OW layback). After completing the first crux (protected by the old bolt) you will have to do a very tight squeeze chimney/OW. Big cams don't work here so if you are bothered by that bring a BigBro. I had to run the chimney section out at about 5.9.

I climb all over Granite Mountain and have incredible respect for Karl, Scott, Rusty, and David. I can't imagine doing this in the fashio they did back then. Bravo. Dec 29, 2008
This route was all Karl Karlstrom, or at least the original lead. Not sure about the left side direct variation. Left side is harder than right side but the upper stuff is where the meat of the matter gets left.

And yes, he was run out in the crack, with a leg jam and one very awkward stance to drill from. Over his head and off to the side. He told me he'd pounded in a bong then just started chunking along.

This was one burly lead for the time. I've always been amazed by the audacity of launching into the horrific looking crack and stopping to drill.

This fat crack rejected a lot (I think all, except Karl) of the good Az climbers of the day (until the big bros came along), even ones with substantial OW experience. Apr 11, 2008
FA Rusty Bailly and the lads.
I first saw that wicked wicked crack in 1976 or 77 and it scared me silly. The landing if you fell without gear was a monstrous cacti. The bolt was drilled on lead during a subsequent effort to lead the evil gash. The story I was told is that it was an epic effort done on lead. The climber had to wedge their body in and frantically hand drill behind their head and shoulder. Apr 27, 2007
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
 
Amazing for sure, I couldn't imagine doing this on passive pro. Do you know who did the FA on this? Mar 25, 2007