Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: p1, Ajax Greene, Chris Reveley 3/76, p2 Ed Webster, Larry Coats 12/76, p3 Jim Waugh, Jim Zahn '80
Page Views: 1,354 total · 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

p1 Getting off the ground can be difficult. Brass nuts protect the first moves in this flared right leaning 11- crack. Climb to belay on easier ground at end of crack. p2 climbs off right and up past bolts to ledge system (10+ face). P3 climbs up a bald arete (9R) and can easily be avoided (fa third by Waugh, Jim Zahn '80)

Location

right of the base of coke bottle/falling ross is the right diagonal of Adam's Rib.

Protection

brass nuts to medium friends

Photos

KyleKent  
 
The crack is not as good as it looks, it is mostly a butt-crack. The gear is not very good, especially early on the pitch. The start is strange and you have to climb over multiple agave and a couple prickly pear. Pitch 2 looks to be fantastic, we accidentally did pitch 2 of The Whiner (highly recommended against doing this).

  • Bolts on pitch 1 and 2 replaced.
Nov 7, 2009
Luke W.
Prescott
Luke W.   Prescott
have all the bolts been replaced then? Nov 12, 2009
KyleKent  
 
There is a 3rd pitch (5.9+R/X). It is about 50 feet and has one bolt at 20 feet or so. We have not replaced that yet due to logistics of getting to it being somewhat annoying. Nov 13, 2009
Flynn Mcfarland
Prescott, AZ
 
Flynn Mcfarland   Prescott, AZ
 
The second pitch of .10+ face was airy and exposed, super exciting climbing with a wee bit of run out, though the hardest moves are pretty much at/above the second bolt. I liked the second pitch more than the first to be honest, much more elegant of a line. Dec 3, 2015
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.11-
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.11-
The bolt on p3 has been replaced courtesy of the ASCA. Still very much R, and a sandbag at 5.9. I guess the first ascent party figured they could just jump down to the ledge if they peeled off before getting a stance to drill a bolt..? Nov 27, 2018