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Routes in Right Section

Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: p1, Ajax Greene, Chris Reveley 3/76, p2 Ed Webster, Larry Coats 12/76, p3 Jim Waugh, Jim Zahn '80
Page Views: 1,208 total, 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

p1 Getting off the ground can be difficult. Brass nuts protect the first moves in this flared right leaning 11- crack. Climb to belay on easier ground at end of crack. p2 climbs off right and up past bolts to ledge system (10+ face). P3 climbs up a bald arete (9R) and can easily be avoided (fa third by Waugh, Jim Zahn '80)

Location

right of the base of coke bottle/falling ross is the right diagonal of Adam's Rib.

Protection

brass nuts to medium friends

Photos

Flynn Mcfarland
Prescott, AZ
 
Flynn Mcfarland   Prescott, AZ
 
The second pitch of .10+ face was airy and exposed, super exciting climbing with a wee bit of run out, though the hardest moves are pretty much at/above the second bolt. I liked the second pitch more than the first to be honest, much more elegant of a line. Dec 3, 2015
KyleKent  
 
There is a 3rd pitch (5.9+R/X). It is about 50 feet and has one bolt at 20 feet or so. We have not replaced that yet due to logistics of getting to it being somewhat annoying. Nov 13, 2009
Luke W.
Prescott
Luke W.   Prescott
have all the bolts been replaced then? Nov 12, 2009
KyleKent  
 
The crack is not as good as it looks, it is mostly a butt-crack. The gear is not very good, especially early on the pitch. The start is strange and you have to climb over multiple agave and a couple prickly pear. Pitch 2 looks to be fantastic, we accidentally did pitch 2 of The Whiner (highly recommended against doing this).

  • Bolts on pitch 1 and 2 replaced.
Nov 7, 2009