Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Jay Anderson
Page Views: 1,317 total · 98/month
Shared By: GabrielKoybz on Jan 15, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

The line is obvious:
Climb the wide 25-foot splitter through the roof (starts at #6 size and slims down to hands at the lip) using every OW trick you can muster. Hopefully you've been doing your sit-ups...

Gets 12+\13a in the topo, but it’s hard to put numbers on lines like these.
 
It’s a good idea to bring a short beater rope for this one, cuz every few falls causes a core shot due to the geometry of the rig.

Location

Roof crack that splits a large boulder below "The Face" on the right side of GM. It’s visible from the front porch.

All day shade 

Protection

Camalots from #2-#6 (1 each or 2 #5s instead of a 6)

Cleaning it is a hassle.

Photos

Patrick Kingsbury
Anthem, AZ
Patrick Kingsbury   Anthem, AZ
Is this route closed with the bird closures? Apr 3, 2018
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.12+
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.12+
Technically, yes.

Don't miss Jump Back Jack Crack if you like the wide Apr 3, 2018
Greg Opland    
Need to get the Jaybro over here to show you how it's done! May 9, 2018
Nate Sydnor   Moab
Among the great references for a route name Sep 11, 2018