Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom
Page Views: 2,821 total · 20/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 11, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

originally rated 5.8 (in RR's), then upgraded to 5.9-, the grade of the route varies from day to day, and sometimes feels into the lower 5.10's. The key is it is a strenuous lie-back. Fine gear once established, a real Granite Mountain must do.

Location

the farthest right dihedral before the descent gully.

Protection

stoppers, double set camming devices to 4"

Photos

for the onsight, i'd call it granite mt 9+

and don't do it in july or it will feel like 10c Nov 18, 2008
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.9-
Chris M   Hailey, ID
  5.9-
Be careful of rope drag when protecting the early roof- it will be paralyzing later on. Gear is 2x from green alien to #3 BD. Shoes for the walk off are really nice. Oct 17, 2009
You don't see this done very often, at least I haven't.
Done it twice on lead and seen one party TR it.
Bit of a long walk for one pitch...
Good pitch to do on your way down from the top and you're not done yet.
Or after a hang at the front port.
It's somewhat unique for the Mnt.

Over the years, I've heard many folks call this a sandbag.
It's certainly got it's moments.
It's not what you want to stick a rookie 5.9 leader on.
Maybe cams reduce the error factor since it's a lot easier to plug and pray one of those than a wired stopper.

Piece of history, I once asked Baxter about the name.
He just looked at me and said:

"What do you do in an Easy Chair ?"

uhhh I don't know, sleep? drink beer? watch baseball?
oh, duhhh, You ..... Nov 11, 2009