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Routes in Right Section

Adam's Rib T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B.A.RB Variation T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Cactus Picker S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheiu Hoi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack n Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Weaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Easy Chair, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Falling Ross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
For Pete, Thanks (Sarni's Route, Brian's Song) T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grody Coyote T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Guillotine Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Back Jack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slide Action Traction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sly's Idea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorn T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whiner, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom
Page Views: 2,647 total, 21/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 11, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

originally rated 5.8 (in RR's), then upgraded to 5.9-, the grade of the route varies from day to day, and sometimes feels into the lower 5.10's. The key is it is a strenuous lie-back. Fine gear once established, a real Granite Mountain must do.

Location

the farthest right dihedral before the descent gully.

Protection

stoppers, double set camming devices to 4"

Photos

You don't see this done very often, at least I haven't.
Done it twice on lead and seen one party TR it.
Bit of a long walk for one pitch...
Good pitch to do on your way down from the top and you're not done yet.
Or after a hang at the front port.
It's somewhat unique for the Mnt.

Over the years, I've heard many folks call this a sandbag.
It's certainly got it's moments.
It's not what you want to stick a rookie 5.9 leader on.
Maybe cams reduce the error factor since it's a lot easier to plug and pray one of those than a wired stopper.

Piece of history, I once asked Baxter about the name.
He just looked at me and said:

"What do you do in an Easy Chair ?"

uhhh I don't know, sleep? drink beer? watch baseball?
oh, duhhh, You ..... Nov 11, 2009
ccmski body
Seattle, WA
  5.9-
ccmski body   Seattle, WA
  5.9-
Be careful of rope drag when protecting the early roof- it will be paralyzing later on. Gear is 2x from green alien to #3 BD. Shoes for the walk off are really nice. Oct 17, 2009
for the onsight, i'd call it granite mt 9+

and don't do it in july or it will feel like 10c Nov 18, 2008