Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Angel Mangual-Guadalupe
Page Views: 2,772 total, 26/month
Shared By: Mike Diesen on Jan 20, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


58 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fun climbing up the face of the detached block right of Whatchamacallit. Follows bolts up the crux face to where the rock pinches off. Pull roof and continue up bolts. Make very exposed step over next roof then cruise easy face to anchors. Be sure to stay out of the grungy rock around the left corner.

This is a very fun and exposed climb but really watch yourself between the second and third bolt. And make sure you belayer is paying attention. If you blow the third clip and your belayer is asleep there is a potential to deck.

Location

Right of Whatchamacallit is a detached block. Climb starts just left of the center of the face and then up to the left side.

Protection

Bolts, Chain Anchors

Photos

pheindel Heindel  
  5.8
Fun route, especially towards the top. No run out anymore, very safe climb. Can anyone explain why the chains on most of these routes are way above an avoidable edge? Trying to prevent lowering and TR? Jan 9, 2011
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
 
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
 
Daryl - Must have been! Let's try that again sometime, when I'm conscious. :) Apr 21, 2009
Jimbo  
Daryl, those of us that do need to protect each other from those that don't. Just doin' my job.

I glad it all came to a delightful conclusion.

Cheers,
Apr 20, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
5.7 PG13
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
5.7 PG13
I met you a weekend or two before you dogged me on that photo belaying wo a helmet. In fact, you were belaying someone from that same spot [goodnplenty] when i met you. Must have been a heckuva night. ;)

All, don't fret over the bolt. It was a concerted effort and the FA is well aware; all involved parties have his eternal blessings. Thanks, Jimbo, for manning the Phalanx.. always nice to have a good deck gunner on your side! Apr 20, 2009
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
 
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
 
Now I'm confused... The really, really interesting part is: Why would someone say they'd added a bolt if it wasn't them?

Only slightly less interesting is the fact that I've never met Daryl. Why haven't I ever met Daryl? Apr 20, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
5.7 PG13
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
5.7 PG13
The interesting part of this story is i haven't seen Brigette in a couple months. Apr 15, 2009
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
I guess I have to make another scary route :) HMMMM I wonder who put the bolt because I found out after the fact? Could it had been grani Mike hmmmm :) Hey...guys have fun and I can't wait to climb again...you guys have to see the potential that is over here. I guess on my standards is going to be a 5.7 Apr 15, 2009
Jimbo  
All is forgiven. Making a call to Afghanistan to add a bolt is way beyond the call of duty. Apr 13, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Yes it was Daryl. He just earned himself 20 feet of penalty slack the next time he climbs. Apr 13, 2009
Brigette
Mukilteo, WA
 
Brigette   Mukilteo, WA
 
FYI - We ran into the bolt-adder this weekend and he mentioned that he got Angel's permission (all the way from Afghanistan) before adding that bolt. Apr 13, 2009
Jimbo  
No kidding, someone just up and added another bolt without asking?

People there are rules, no matter how loose they sometimes appear to be!

If it's not your route and you wnat to change it in some way how's about asking the FAist?? He or she might just say "OK go for it".
Or they might say "no way leave it alone", which you should then do!!!!!

What up!!!

Apr 8, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
5.7 PG13
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
5.7 PG13
Someone added a [third] bolt...no more "runout". The nerve of some people! =) Apr 8, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
The crux is the second to third bolt. Run out so really watch yourself. Probably closer to 5.8+. Maybe even pushing easy 5.9. Jan 31, 2009
Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.8
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.8
Very fun route. Watch yourself between the second and third bolts, the holds are there but they can be hard to find. Stick to the left above the second bolt for a little easier climbing. Jan 24, 2009