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Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Daryl Allen
Page Views: 1,457 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mike Diesen on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Challenging vertical line that goes up between Hot Tamale and Pop Rocks almost sharing holds with Pop Rocks at one point. Half way up is a fun and well - protected crux, after which, the climb eases up eventually ending at a roomy ledge with chain anchors. Continuing up to the summit is another 40 feet or so that starts up a dihedral with 9+ moves easing up immediately after pulling onto the ledge. Another two bolt chain anchor will let you bring up your second safely. A 70m rope will get you down from the top anchor but don't expect to TR the entire route from there. Pulling your rappel line from the top anchors is best done from on top the boulder 30 feet back from the wall. Walk off to the north or double rap if using a 60m.

Location

Steep blocky face right of Hot Tamale.

Protection

bolts, Mid point and top anchors

Photos

Tim Hadfield
Steamboat Springs, Co
Tim Hadfield   Steamboat Springs, Co
Climbing the second pitch is well worth it! Jan 12, 2012
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.10b
One move wonder, for sure, but I found this route to be less "permanent" than Hot Tomale. I also think the crux move on this route is harder than any single move on Hot Tomale...I give it the same difficulty rating and 1 less star. Sep 13, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Definitely a one-move wonder route; most of it is 5.8. Crux is smack dab in the middle. Aug 13, 2009