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Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Dudley
Page Views: 1,646 total, 16/month
Shared By: Daryl Allan on Apr 25, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Thought-provoking moves on the slightly overhanging second half. Those patient enough to tolerate some brittle rock at the start are in for a treat on the gymnastic upper half.

Step into the bottom of an obvious impression, clip up, then move out right to a ledge. From top of ledge, move back left onto the route and up. From here on up, to keep the route at the grade, the route is intended to follow line to the left and over bolts; not up the crack on the right.

Pulling the route direct at the bottom and/or to the right of the bolt line pushes the grade up quite a bit.

Location

Currently the only route on the south face of the rock. Go through gate in fence downhill from right-most end of Sweet Rock then hike up and around to back side. Going around this way helps avoid the bees in the tree against the rock and just past the fence.

Protection

9 bolts to chain anchors

Photos

Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Thanks for the input Sam and agreed.

Description updated accordingly. Mar 16, 2016
Sam Thompson
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Sam Thompson   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
I would disagree pretty strongly that this is a route for beginning leaders. First three bolts all involve awkward stances on thin holds, then the upper half gives no significant rest spots at any of the bolts. If you're fumbling with draws, you're going to wear out REAL fast while hanging on overhung crimps. Mar 14, 2016
BAd
BAd  
I liked this route, but the four of us who climbed it recently consider the rating--5.8--to be a serious sandbag. Climb this route and compare it to the other 5.8's on Sweet and Trad Rock and you'll see what I mean. To be honest, it felt about 5.10a, maybe stout 5.9. The start was a bit chossy, but overall a good route. In short, 5.8 leaders, beware. Dec 31, 2010
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
The bees in the tree just past the fence and up close to the wall are very active now. If hiking around to TTR, cross the fence down at the boulder or even down further through the gate. Continue up trail and you'll see the bee tree (see topo for location). Don't get too close!! There are no routes near the tree. Jun 9, 2009