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Kit Kat

5.8, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 125 votes
FA: Angel Mangual-Guadalupe
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > W Stronghold > Sweet Rock

Description

Fun climbing up the face of the detached block right of Whatchamacallit. Follows bolts up the crux face to where the rock pinches off. Pull roof and continue up bolts. Make very exposed step over next roof then cruise easy face to anchors. Be sure to stay out of the grungy rock around the left corner.

This is a very fun and exposed climb but really watch yourself between the second and third bolt. And make sure you belayer is paying attention. If you blow the third clip and your belayer is asleep there is a potential to deck.

Location

Right of Whatchamacallit is a detached block. Climb starts just left of the center of the face and then up to the left side.

Protection

Bolts, Chain Anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First bolt
[Hide Photo] First bolt
Angel Pulling roof on first lead just after he finished bolting. The rope is just a repel line on different anchors. Not the rope he was using.
[Hide Photo] Angel Pulling roof on first lead just after he finished bolting. The rope is just a repel line on different anchors. Not the rope he was using.
Getting into the roofs...
[Hide Photo] Getting into the roofs...
Todd starting up Kit Kat.
[Hide Photo] Todd starting up Kit Kat.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Very fun route. Watch yourself between the second and third bolts, the holds are there but they can be hard to find. Stick to the left above the second bolt for a little easier climbing. Jan 24, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The crux is the second to third bolt. Run out so really watch yourself. Probably closer to 5.8+. Maybe even pushing easy 5.9. Jan 31, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Someone added a [third] bolt...no more "runout". The nerve of some people! =) Apr 8, 2009
[Hide Comment] No kidding, someone just up and added another bolt without asking?

People there are rules, no matter how loose they sometimes appear to be!

If it's not your route and you wnat to change it in some way how's about asking the FAist?? He or she might just say "OK go for it".
Or they might say "no way leave it alone", which you should then do!!!!!

What up!!!

Apr 8, 2009
Brigette Beasley
Monroe, WA
 
[Hide Comment] FYI - We ran into the bolt-adder this weekend and he mentioned that he got Angel's permission (all the way from Afghanistan) before adding that bolt. Apr 13, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Yes it was Daryl. He just earned himself 20 feet of penalty slack the next time he climbs. Apr 13, 2009
[Hide Comment] All is forgiven. Making a call to Afghanistan to add a bolt is way beyond the call of duty. Apr 13, 2009
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] I guess I have to make another scary route :) HMMMM I wonder who put the bolt because I found out after the fact? Could it had been grani Mike hmmmm :) Hey...guys have fun and I can't wait to climb again...you guys have to see the potential that is over here. I guess on my standards is going to be a 5.7 Apr 15, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] The interesting part of this story is i haven't seen Brigette in a couple months. Apr 15, 2009
Brigette Beasley
Monroe, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Now I'm confused... The really, really interesting part is: Why would someone say they'd added a bolt if it wasn't them?

Only slightly less interesting is the fact that I've never met Daryl. Why haven't I ever met Daryl? Apr 20, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] I met you a weekend or two before you dogged me on that photo belaying wo a helmet. In fact, you were belaying someone from that same spot [goodnplenty] when i met you. Must have been a heckuva night. ;)

All, don't fret over the bolt. It was a concerted effort and the FA is well aware; all involved parties have his eternal blessings. Thanks, Jimbo, for manning the Phalanx.. always nice to have a good deck gunner on your side! Apr 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] Daryl, those of us that do need to protect each other from those that don't. Just doin' my job.

I glad it all came to a delightful conclusion.

Cheers,
Apr 20, 2009
Brigette Beasley
Monroe, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Daryl - Must have been! Let's try that again sometime, when I'm conscious. :) Apr 21, 2009
[Hide Comment] Fun route, especially towards the top. No run out anymore, very safe climb. Can anyone explain why the chains on most of these routes are way above an avoidable edge? Trying to prevent lowering and TR? Jan 9, 2011