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Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Daryl
Page Views: 1,274 total, 12/month
Shared By: Daryl Allan on Feb 1, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Pull over a small overhang down low, up to another 7 foot or so ceiling half way up then up a short, right-leaning dihedral to a few more face climbs to finish it off. Runner the draw in the corner under the big roof or even pull it after clipping the next ceiling edge bolt to reduce rope drag up top. Also, consider runnering the draw just above the big roof.

Location

First route right of Payday. Starts up the left side of the black water stain.

Protection

11 bolts to chain anchor, 60m rope.

Photos

Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Of the three 11s in this sector, I found Zagnut to be the hardest and Lemonhead to be the best.

To prevent rope drag I did the following:
  • Sling two bolts prior to roof
  • Back clean bolt prior to roof
  • Sling bolt after roof

Which is pretty much what Daryl suggests.

Sucks that someone would bring the climb down to their level by chipping. Very poor form. Feb 2, 2014
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
On 3rd thought, Yes it is. Quit chipping my f&*king routes whomever you are. There are more than enough moderates here. Feb 21, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
On 2nd thought, it really isn't worth it. Deleted.. Feb 7, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Way to go putting up such a hard climb in this new area! Keep up the good work! Dec 1, 2009
Mike Dudley
Vegas
 
Mike Dudley   Vegas
 
Only climbed this on toprope but the climb is awesome and very sustained. Very fun can't wait to lead it. Mar 1, 2009