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Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike Diesen
Page Views: 2,107 total, 20/month
Shared By: Mike Diesen on Jan 20, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

Super fun over bolted climbing (must have been pay day when I bought the bolts) past 3 roofs. Delicately climb grungy corner then step onto right face. Work up past bolts to the obvious crack in the roof. Pull over roof at crack then climb up corner to another roof. Climb over right side of roof and on up corner. Where right face goes blank step onto left face and clip bolt. Use a long sling to minimize rope drag. Climb left face to top of bulge then pull final roof (crux) and climb thin steep face to anchors. Strenuous climbing at grade. The bottom of this route is still being cleaned. Stay off the left side of the bottom corner.

Location

In the corner on the right side of face were Now and Later starts.

Protection

16 bolts, chain anchors. When descending use care. A 60 meter rope will just barely get you down.
Greg Goodrum
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Greg Goodrum   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
This route is one of the best single pitch in the area. It's a diverse mix of slab, technical face, and a few powerful pulling moves. While the route requires 16 bolts and you shouldn't skip, it's possible to lead with 12 draws since a few of the upper bolts can be cleaned from a bolt above. Not recommended, but possible. Mar 22, 2015
Matt Riddle
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.9+
Matt Riddle   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.9+
I've had a lengthy layoff and am getting back into the swing of things and Pay Day was the perfect route. I found that there were no great holds on any of the moves but the entire route was just so that all the holds were just enough to pull a move. Also, it felt an awful lot like you'd pull a move and then you would have an easy resting place, so it was consistently, work, rest, work, rest, work.

I believe it was 16 bolts in all and it ate up most of my 60 m rope, so be prepared. If you have any longer runners, use them to prevent some rope drag in a couple places. Be careful on some of the moves; it's not a clean face by any means and a fall may mean you could partially deck out, even if it is 10 bolts in. I was cognizant of that and climbed accordingly, so I felt safe.

Well bolted, excellent line. I had a blast and was stoked that I was ready for a Stronghold 5.9. That rust breaks off fast. Jul 23, 2012
BAd
5.9+
BAd  
5.9+
Excellent. I good way to take the sting out of the weird start is to stick clip the second bolt. The start is by far the crux, so if you blow the second clip, a grounder might be possible.

Sorry, Dwook. No way this is 5.8+. I think the stated rating is about right, although most of it is a bit easier after the start. Dec 31, 2010
Dwook
  5.8+
Dwook  
  5.8+
Fun Route, the bottom has a boulder move sorta have a spotter ready. I did this in my guide shoes and flew up it on TR to get a photo of us flying a kite on the Top of another climb...I would say this is prob the best route on Sweet rock just for its sustained fun climbing. This is good for the beginner leader who wants to become more comfortable sport leading. I have to agree that it is over bolted though...but then again who am I to complain. Thanks for setting this route up. Apr 12, 2010
Tod Gunter
Hailey, ID
  5.9
Tod Gunter   Hailey, ID
  5.9
Just climbed it last week and it was my favorite of the trip! With lots of stemming I found it not too strenuous and right on the money at 5.9. I agree that the bottom was harder for me than the top.
Thanks for all the development that is making Cochise a place for mere mortals to have fun too! Mar 22, 2010
Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.9
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.9
Awesome climb! My favorite at sweet rock. I found the crux to actually be the very start of the climb in the crappy rock at the bottom. From there the climb is awesome! The second roof is my favorite move of the climb, if not my favorite move ive ever done. Great work Mike! Jan 24, 2009
Neil Barrett
Sierra Vista
 
Neil Barrett   Sierra Vista
 
Awesome route Mike. Thanks for all your efforts.

This is a very fun route and I predict it will become the favorite of Sweet Rock. It really has everything; under clings, slabs, overhangs, body wedges, laybacks, and balancy little crimpers. No one move is more then 5.9, but it's long so my hands got tired towards the top when you pull over the layback and have to fight for that last few feet.

It looks intimidating from below. As you go over the second crux move, about 50 feet up, all you can see from the bottom is a very smooth wall, but rest assured if you move to the out of sight left side of the crack, life is good. Here there is a nice place to stand and enjoy the view and rest for a minute before you tackle the final layback crux.

Bolt placement is solid with good holds for clipping-in. The big rocks have been cleaned, though you may want to belay back away from the wall as little stones and pebbles are still coming off. With a few more people climbing it, that shouldn't take too long. If you don't mind not seeing the climber when you belay, there's a well protected spot just to the right of the start that is under a roof. Jan 20, 2009