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Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,280 total · 21/month
Shared By: Mike Diesen on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Obvious crack with 2 bolts. Where crack veers left go straight up face on plates.

Location

The obvious crack on the left side of the main alcove.

Protection

Mixed. A couple bolts but mostly natural pro. Chains for anchors. You can clip the chains from the top of Peanut Brittle and TR it.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Burly, fun, sustained climbing. Enjoyed the finish moves over the headwall. Dec 7, 2012
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
Stoppers are force multipliers too. Like using a wedge and sledge to split a log. Jun 30, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Full slideshow of Mike leading CJ. Jun 6, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
mike,

I've gotta admit, a bomber nut is nice to have!

cams are rated for the downward force placed on them, not the outward force they exert. each lobe must be able to exert 1/4 (or 1/3 for a tcu) of the total outward force. so in the situation you describe, each lobe would have to support roughly a 6kn load. cams are tough!

it wouldn't be easy to generate 6kn in a typical leader fall, though, even when using a grigri, falling with little rope out, and coming close to the ground. jeff fassett and i measured an average of 4.9kN generated in a 10' leader falls with just over 20' of rope out. if using an plate (which i'd strongly suggest over a grigri for traditional climbing) the same falls generated an average of 4.0 kN.

of course, this will vary depending on the rope characteristics, mass of the climber, etc. or, if you're doing multipitch climbs and take a factor 2 fall on the anchor, that's just gonna hurt. :) Apr 30, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
So you're saying if I take a large fall that generates 6kn of force on my cam then the cam generates 25kn of force on the rock. Rocks tough so that doesn't bother me but remembering my college physics day this means that the rock generates an equal force back on the cam (25kn). Makes me wonder how a cam rated at 12kn holds a large fall. Maybe that is why I'm always more comfortable with a bomber nut placement. Apr 30, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
That's because Jimbo is a badass!

In all seriousness, though, the original message is getting lost behind all the math ... the moral of the story: place cams in beefy rock. Apr 30, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
I would have sat between both of you poindexters in trigacalcuometry and cheated like a filthy rat. Then again, forgo my blabbering and lead yer peaches off; as many have done. I watched Jimbo stretch this thing out on next to nothing. Apr 29, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
hey john-

that seems to calculate correctly - i think the BD cams are around a 13.5 degree cam angle - the outward force is 4.35x according to this equation.

i had calculated it by some roundabout way a while ago, but didn't have the formula on hand here at work! thanks. :) Apr 29, 2009
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
1.0 / sin (cam angle) Apr 29, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
hey daryl-

thanks for sharing, and glad that cam held!!

based on the photo, it looks as if the cam was placed behind a 1-1.5" thick flake. generally speaking that's too thin to support the outward force a cam places on the rock during the fall (approx 4x of the force exerted on the piece). note that the inner lobes held in the region of the placement where the supporting rock was much thicker.

part of the problem, as you pointed out, may have been rock quality. additionally, had the cam been placed deeper (so that all four lobes were pushing against the thicker rock) this probably wouldn't have happened.

glad to hear everyone's OK! great picture. :) Apr 29, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
If leading this crack, be advised the rock isn't stellar and may blow open causing gear placements to fail. Check out this pic of a cam I caught Meghan on after it blew the crack apart yet miraculously held. It blew open with such force that a projectile from it hit and sliced my hand. Jan 28, 2009

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