Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Angel Mangual
Page Views: 1,362 total, 13/month
Shared By: Angel Mangual on Jan 24, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A great sport route. The crux is the roof after the second bolt. After pulling the roof, there are good handles for your right hand (look for them they are great). The climb eases up after the crux. There is a Run up between the 4th and 5th bolt, but is easy climbing. Enjoy! Just Have Fun!

Location

To the right of Kit Kat and to the left of Now and Later.

Protection

7 bolts and chain anchor. A 60 meter rope is good. It is a new route so I highly recommend the belayer and the climber to wear a helmet. There might still be some loose rocks.

Photos

Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
  5.11- PG13
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
  5.11- PG13
A good strategy if you're at your limit on this route is to hang on the second bolt, suss out the feet and the sequence to the jug, and then lower back to the ledge and send from there (pulling the rope and/or lowering to the ground depending how pure you want to be!).

As others have suggested, a ledge fall appears almost guaranteed if you blow the moves to the jug, even though the bolt is close by. This grade is around my onsight limit so I didn't feel safe going for the OS. However, I felt the level of risk was acceptably low after getting my sequence dialed, but it was just too pumpy and insecure for me to do that without hanging on the bolt. Sort of like a headpoint and a sport route rolled into one ;) Nov 28, 2017
mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
 
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
 
I fell at the crux move, which comes just after clipping 2nd bolt...decked on ledge and sprained ankle. There is really no way to not deck if you actually go for it and miss. This line needs a third and possibly fourth bolt added between 2 and 3. I'd recommend not onsighting this if you are anything less than a solid 11 leader. Oct 27, 2013
John Steiger
  5.10d
John Steiger  
  5.10d
Found the crux to be as hard as that on Everlasting Gobstopper, but maybe because I sensed disaster if I fell off. Great rock though... Apr 29, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10c
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10c
You're spot-on Paul. It needs a bolt just past the crux to remove the potential of smacking the ledge if you blow the third bolt. Angel, you listening?? ;p Apr 27, 2011
Paul Davidson
5.10c/d R
Paul Davidson  
5.10c/d R
Second bolt should be higher up or a third added because the ledge potential on those moves is pretty high. A sport climb should never have a ledge out potential.

Also, after we'd done this climb, we TR'd the thin cracks on the face between Atomic and Watcha for a fun variation. Bit thin, probably not as hard as Atomic but perhaps a bit more sustained. Hard to recall. Apr 27, 2011
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
I tried the middle when putting up Atomic fire ball but there was a big loose rock thatI did not wanted to mess with it. I think Mike also tried it before so we talked about it. I am glad that you were able to enjoy it. Apr 19, 2010
Dwook
  5.10c/d
Dwook  
  5.10c/d
Once you reach the giant jug at the top you cant wait to clip the next bolt...Has anyone done the variation going straight up the face to the left of the bolt? It looks really hard, I tried it and I rate it 5.11a/b...fell trying it though :< Apr 12, 2010
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Man...you guys are tearing up my routes...I am here hurting to climb and tomorrow go old Afghanistan...If posible I will put routes up there yeeaaa...Man I looking at every little building and try to traverse it, they look at me crazy jajaja Feb 5, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10c/d R
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10c/d R
Did a fun variation. Climb Kit Kat. After clipping the 4th bolt continue up the ramp. Finish on Fireball. The final roof just below the anchors is the funnest part of the climb. Makes a fun sustained 5.8 variation to the routes. Feb 5, 2009
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
The jog that you pull off was it a key hole to pull off the crux? Feb 5, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10c/d R
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10c/d R
The route really isn't sustained. It has a super hard (5.10+) move at the second bolt but the rest of the route is only 5.8. If you can get past the second bolt though the upper part is really fun. Jan 31, 2009