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Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Diesen, Daryl Allen
Page Views: 2,372 total, 22/month
Shared By: Mike Diesen on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Steep sustained and pumpy climbing up overhanging rock with minimal rests. After 70 feet take rest before pulling last 20 foot section to anchors. From anchors step left on very thin face past a couple more bolts. Cruise last section on easier ground to top. A 70 meter rope will get you to the ground from the top. Otherwise make 2 60 meter rappels back down. Could scramble to the top and walk off to the North.

Location

The bolted line up the right side of the obvious alcove.

Protection

bolts. midpoint anchors @ 90ft and top anchors
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
I have not done this route in a long time, but I definitely recommend doing this route by combining both pitches in one. That is the way to go! 70 meter will get you down. Sep 30, 2013
I think our crew felt this was our favorite climb on the wall (but we didn't do the 12s.) We did it twice actually when we ended up back on the wall for our "rest" day (Steiger's idea of rest is to lead LemmonHead (or was it Zagnut?) and Everlasting Gob. That's a Rhichard kind of rest day.)

For me, I thought the starting moves were the crux and it seemed like the 2nd clip if blown could warrant a PG13. Probably more about just adjusting to the type of climbing and being on a TR meant I wasn't very zoned in. Grossman and Mish didn't seem bothered by the starting clips.

Great position and moves, very classic Windy Point feeling. Apr 28, 2011
A well bolted 10 with pumpy moves (thanks Angel!) Super fun with interesting features, great for taking relatively safe falls for beginning leaders. Mar 15, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
ouch!! i vote for an x rating. Dec 2, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Actually, I could see a pg13. If you blow the 3rd clip you could split you nuts wide open on the pointed ledge just below the 2nd bolt. I already did that. That's why I have no more balls!!! :-) Dec 2, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
... 4) honest mistake. :) Dec 2, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10a/b
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10a/b
Beats me.. no recollection of how or why i did that. Fixed! Dec 1, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
ccmski wrote:Daryl- Where does the PG-13 come from? 11 bolts in less than 100 feet of climbing to the 1st anchors...
Possible explanations:
1) All bolts are in the first 50 feet,
2) Elves unclip the bolts at random intervals,
3) Half of the bolts are "trick bolts" attached only with velcro. Dec 1, 2009
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10-
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10-
Daryl- Where does the PG-13 come from? 11 bolts in less than 100 feet of climbing to the 1st anchors... Dec 1, 2009
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.10b
Great route, Daryl. It's cleaning up nicely - there seems to be less temporary holds on this one that on some of the others. Sep 13, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10a/b
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10a/b
The most sustained route on the wall IMHO. Great for running laps to build up hand strength! Jun 9, 2009