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Routes in Sweet Rock

Atomic FireBall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cracker Jack T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everlasting Gobstopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good and Plenty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jaw Breaker S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kit Kat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemonhead S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mounds S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Now and Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pay Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rick Krispie Treat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sun Drop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taste the Rainbow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thingamajig S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whatchamacallit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zagnut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: DA
Page Views: 1,110 total · 12/month
Shared By: Daryl Allan on Jul 26, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Straight up the black water stain on the right end of the wall. Pull a mind blowing undercling with no feet to a long reach over the small roof to a crimper then up milder ground to a fun mid 10ish move in the middle then another just below chain anchors.

Location

Between Zagnut and Lemonhead up the black water stain. At the far right end of the wall, the last route on the left side of the big bush that heads up to the deep upside down "V" notch roof.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
It might take a day or two to dry out after any rain. There's a big patch of grassy moss stuff way up top that drains down the black water stain but if it's dry, the black area isn't slick at all. It was actively dripping/running yesterday when the rest of the wall was bone dry. Jul 26, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
yeah!! go daryl! :) Jul 26, 2010
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Thanks Geir! The fourth bolt has been moved left about a foot to accommodate the variation that some folks are taking to pull the roof. Apparently I'm the only weirdo that climbs it straight on. ;) The new bolt location basically keeps the climber from having to pull the roof [crux] again if he/she blows the move after the roof to get to the bolt. Now you can clip from the "rest" after the roof regardless of how you sequence it out. Thanks for the input Mike, Tim and Tony! Aug 20, 2010
John Steiger
  5.11c
John Steiger  
  5.11c
Great climb Daryl -- best of the routes I did during our week in the Sweet/Trad Rocks area: well-bolted, good rock, thuggish crux with great position followed by two tricky and attention-getting sections to the chains. I also really liked Everlasting Gobstopper and Hot Tamale, but this one is the gem at Sweet Rock -- keep it up DA. Found it to be completely dry (on 4/13) a few days after a reportedly good rain storm. Apr 29, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Thanks John for the kind words and feedback! Really glad to hear you enjoyed it.d Nov 30, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Congrats on your send Angel!! Your redpoint looked very clean and calm. No screaming, yelling.. just slow, smooth movements. Great work! Feb 21, 2013
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11c
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11c
Thanks D! Good Route! Up to the next :) Mar 1, 2013

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