Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Diesen
Page Views: 1,782 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mike Diesen on Sep 14, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

WARNING!!! DUE TO SUSPECT ROCK THE GENERAL CONSENSUS FOR THIS ROUTE IS R/X.

Climb over a series of mounds to a scary looking block. Carefully pull over this block staying slightly left of the bolts to the top. This block is large and looks like it could come off so be very careful. The roof above wants to push you off. Step right and pull over the roof (crux). Now climb the series of overhanging mounds above to the anchors.

Location

Right of Gobstopper. Climbs the center of the alcove to the top.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
I had a great time at Sweet Rock, but this route was the glaring exception. The middle section is overhanging choss, and it wouldn't surprise me if anything from brick-sized chunks to an entire section of the wall came off despite the best efforts of a careful climber. In my opinion, the route is dangerous and likely can't be made safe.

This comment is not intended as a criticism (overall, I think the developers have done a great job on this cliff), but rather as a warning to future climbers. Nov 29, 2009
Casey Erin
San Diego, CA
 
Casey Erin   San Diego, CA
 
Any word on the giant X in chalk about half way up? It's on a big fat piece of stone that would be a great hold but we all avoided for fear it might be loose. Feb 27, 2010
A layback flake peeled off my lead climber recently and the rest of the route is definately suspect. Super fun but it still has cleaning to do but I think eventually it will be clean and safe. Watch the rock with the x on it, don't even touch it Mar 15, 2010
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
 
If you like bad rock you can get your fix in a million places in So. Az, but why put up a moderate sport route through crap rock? At least one person has already gotten hurt as a result, and it has the potential to be a lot worse. Mar 16, 2010
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
This route has literally at least 3 TV sized blocks waiting to come off... Mar 7, 2011
Charles has it nailed above. I couldn't agree more.

When a guy with over 30 years experience guiding in the Tetons leads a pitch and then calls down that it's a dangerous pile, he ends up rapping and cleaning the route because not one of us had any interest in even a TR on it.

Too bad, it's a great position on the wall but not all rock is meant to be climbed.

Truthfully, the bolts should be pulled before someone gets killed.
A route like this has no place at a sport cliff. There are plenty of places to get your freak on with a head lead. But not at a clip and go area. It makes no sense. There's a good potential for a new leader to get on this with a tragic result. Apr 28, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Mike, here's my $0.02. If i remember correctly, we're talking about the 15' or so foot section of poor rock right in the middle/deepest part of the route. Go up and pry loose everything you can. Once it's absolutely safe from loose rock and if there's still enough left to climb, leave it. If you just can't dig down to good rock, maybe you should take it down. I'm playing devil's advocate here but think about it this way: if someone get's hurt this weekend from rockfall on this route, how would you feel? We've heard lots of votes for either cleaning up the big, obvious death blocks or removing it and some heavy hitters have chimed in with their feelings on it. Apr 29, 2011
Sometimes you just have to let go of the attachment to routes.
Accept that you have put up plenty of good fun climbs and the occasional bummer. That route always looked really good to me but after these comments, I won't go near it.

Like Daryl says, how would you feel...
No reason to take this stuff personally Mike. It's not like you went out of your way to find and bolt some choss. That 5.7 of yours off to the left is great fun, well thought out, nicely bolted, etc...

I don't know about pulling the bolts because someone else will end up putting a route up there. It's too big a piece of blank rock. But certainly clean off anything loose. Apr 29, 2011
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10-
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10-
I appreciate everyones feedback. Some routes are great fun and some are too scary to go near. As individual climbers we all get to decide which routes fit into which category. May 4, 2011
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10-
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10-
Note the route description and rating have been updated until I can get back out there to inspect the route further. May 4, 2011
b-rox
 
b-rox  
 
I thought this was a great route but the mortar added to the death block did not inspire confidence. A little work with prybar and hammer might be the ticket Jan 29, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
This is a great route, too bad for the loose rock, otherwise this one would get 3 stars. This is the best line on Sweet Rock, imo, in terms of movement.

I don't give this one a safety rating; the route is well protected and a lead fall is therefore not likely to result in injury. (I suppose a lead climber could be injured by a block that has come off, during the fall) Your belayer, however, needs to belay well off to the side and should wear a helmet. In that sense, the route can be R/X for the belayer. Oct 28, 2012
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Fairly chossy POS as far as routes go. The bad mortar job holding on the TV sized block is a sloppy joke. If anything comes off, people are going to get hurt on either end of the rope. Jan 1, 2015
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Is it fixable?

Seems like people have know for awhile that this route is a ticking time bomb. The FA could take care of it, if possible, or it could just get chopped so we don't have to read about a rockfall accident at one of the few pedestrian sport climbing locations in the Stronghold.

Thoughts? Jan 2, 2015
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Agree w Luke, especially since this area attracts climbers who will not have a clue about what they're yarding on.

Unless anchored short, the belayer standing to the side is not a foolproof solution; it depends on the timing of the block's fall vs leader's fall, weight differentials between climber and belayer, etc..It is quite possible for the belayer to get pulled into the path of the block.

It's not likely, but a block could also sever the rope. Jan 2, 2015
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10- X
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.10- X
Another vote to just chop it - Fun moves, but those blocks you pull on are pretty large and super chossy. Someone is going to pull them and a belayer and/or others nearby are going to get it bad. The mortared block wasn't really very inspiring either.

Other than this route - I really enjoyed the climbing and very thankful to the efforts the FA's put in to make this a great roadside crag! Jan 19, 2016
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10-
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10-
I'm surprised to hear someone from Scottsdale commenting on rock quality. :) I've taken a crowbar to that block and couldn't get it off. I plan on trying again with a larger crow bar. Although I climb in a lot of areas with a lot worse rock I would feel better if I could get that block off of there. The rest of the climb is pretty solid. Jan 19, 2016
Sam Thompson
Tucson, AZ
 
Sam Thompson   Tucson, AZ
 
Our group of four all climbed this until I checked MP afterwards to see the X rating. The block in question definitely gave us all pause, but I never got the heeby jeeby feeling I get over really questionable flakes. For sure risky, but up to individual comfort levels. A shame too, since this was probably one of my favorite climbs of the day, really great moves and sustained over hanging jug pulls makes this a blast. Mar 14, 2016