Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Daryl Allan
Page Views: 1,645 total · 14/month
Shared By: Daryl Allan on Feb 27, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

First line right of Zagnut. Route starts up an easy scramble past one bolt up to a ledge. Clip up from there and pull over the overhung lemony goodness to a well-earned, one hand rest. Either go the more direct left way up [left] from there or smear up the slab out to the right, through a small dihedral [crux] and arrive at the anchor.

Location

Currently, the right - most route on the wall.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.10d
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.10d
Only climbed this on toperope a few times but this route is by far the best one on the wall. The first roof crux is a blast once you find the moves. Really just a good hard fun route. Mar 1, 2009
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11a/b
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11a/b
Super, super fun! Lots of varied climbing. Start with a hard roof then lieback the crack to the left or go up on impossible slab to the right. After lieback move right across hard thin slab to final roof. Good luck on the roof! Love this route! Mar 30, 2009
pheindel Heindel
  5.11a
pheindel Heindel  
  5.11a
My partner almost took my head off when he pulled a softball sized chunk of rock off just above the second overhang. He claims it did not change the difficulty of the climb, but be aware that things might be flying off this crag trying to kill you - wear a helmet! Jan 9, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
There's still some loose stuff around the exploded hold on the first bulge, so watch where you grab.

Also, there is some pretty crappy fall potential at both of the bulges on the route, where some of the hardest climbing is. You should be solid at the grade, which is more like 11b than 10d. Apr 7, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11b
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11b
Moved three bolts last weekend: one at the bottom crux to accommodate the changed sequence where the key side-pull broke and two at the top to accommodate all the whining from people afraid to take a friggin' fall over 5 feet (just kidding!). The fall at the top crux, while previously clean (i know, i took it many times), is now much, much safer and less scary than before. However be prepared to clip from a small crimper mid-crux. Don't worry though, blowing this one will land you in a clean fall zone out to the right down vertical face away from the mild ramp below the dihedral.

Thanks to all that gave input on this over the last year or so and thanks to Angel for working out the fine tuning on bolt placement for those 5'10" and below :). With the way the bolts are now, this is a super fun and very thought-provoking (read: hard to onsight) route for the grade.

And I'm only playing about the whining, etc. Those that know me know that I put up routes for others and not just for me. That being said, I want them to be safe and enjoyable for everyone for many years to come. We knew when we bolted SR that there would be negative comments about the quality of the rock but the last couple years of intense traffic has cleaned these routes up more than we had hoped for.

Oh, and we cleaned up the bottom bulge substantially.. Many thanks Christian and Eric for the input! There may be some little things come off here and there but I spent quite a while finding and prying off several features that have loosened since the route was put up. Apr 26, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Thank YOU for all your new work on the route..Look forward to getting back on it :-) May 11, 2011
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  5.11c
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  5.11c
Crux moving by the last bolt! Oct 29, 2012
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
11 B is probably a good grade if you do the left finish. The right finish is significantly harder than the first crux, and significantly harder than Zagnut. I've climbed more than a few routes in Cochise. Welcome to the sandbag. Dec 21, 2012
For climbers in the 9 to 10 range: Great intro to the strength, moves, and mindset needed to toprope 11s. Jul 26, 2015
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11b
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.11b
Was out there this past weekend and worked this line after my year or so [plus...] climbing hiatus. I had forgotten what a gem this route was.

Also, just a heads up since I never mentioned it before: I left the development anchors way up top that were used when setting up this and Butterfinger (and possibly even for Zagnut?). These top anchors were left to eventually be the anchor for a Lemonhead second pitch that hasn't quite come to fruition yet. That being said, these anchors can be used to establish a top rope for those breaking into the grade but without someone present to set a TR on lead. Just scramble to the top from behind the bee-tree (5.5 unprotected **CAREFUL**) to the right or from the far left (~200' uphill from Good-n-Plenty). The latter option is the safer/slower option.

Have fun / Bee safe! Jan 16, 2018