Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Diesen
Page Views: 2,783 total · 23/month
Shared By: Mike Diesen on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


87 Opinions

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Description

Thought-provoking and sustained 5.9+ that earns its plus rating around two thirds of the way up at a balance/slab crux. Avoid the urge to veer towards the easier chossy left side around the third bolt. Very well bolted with chain anchors.

Location

Bolted face just left of the obvious crack (Cracker Jack).

Protection

bolts, chain anchors

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Photos

That one?
That one?
 1
Amy at the first crux section.
Amy at the first crux section.
 1
Todd K on Peanut Brittle.
Todd K on Peanut Brittle.
 0
Me leading peanut brittle. One of my favorite 5.9...
Me leading peanut brittle. One of my favorite…
 0
Mike on at the anchors
Mike on at the anchors
 0
Just past the balance/slab crux. Good view of the upper half of the route.
Just past the balance/slab crux. Good view of t…
 0
1st crux
1st crux
 0

5 Comments

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ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
 
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
 
Totally! Great Climb. I would agree. Dont cheat yourself... There is a good dedicated move to the right that you'll do, and then thank yourself that you did!
Great finish as well! Oct 29, 2009
scottcundy
tucson, az
scottcundy   tucson, az
Really great route - thoroughly enjoyed it and was actually a bit giddy afterwards. Fun somewhat blind moves to good stances. Nov 1, 2009
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
Superb, must-do route. Question: When does 5.9+ become 5.10a? I think this qualifies as the later. Dec 31, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Thought this was an amazing route. Felt 10ish to me. For this shorty, it had lots of blind moves. Great little roofy type finish. Loved it. Dec 7, 2012
Adra
Rohnert Park, CA
 
Adra   Rohnert Park, CA
 
This was a really fun route with three distinct cruxes. The holds are some what "hidden" at these cruxes - if you wait and feel around you will find them, however! Mar 6, 2014