Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 408 total · 3/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008 with improvements by Anna Brown
Admins: Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

This route heads up the left side of the broken rocks under the big roof on the right side of the trad area and goes over the roof near the left side of the roof. Then it continues on airy exposed climbing, ending just to the left of p2 of Packrat Dihedral. A 50m rope is sufficient.

p1: scramble up 3rd and 4th class rock about 50' to an alcove and set your first belay here (short "pitch").

p2: climb crack systems heading up and slightly right, staying below the big dihedral, toward a weakness in the big roof; pull the roof (5.8 crux) and set a belay above the roof.

p3: go up and right to airy exposed face climbing (5.6) similar to p2 of Packrat Dihedral (small pockets/cracks for pro); continue up and anchor at a tree on top.

Location

The start of the route is toward the left side of the broken rock area beneath the big roof on the right side of the trad area. For orientation, p1 of Packrat Dihedral ends at the right side of the same roof.

For the descent, climb up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail. Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.

Protection

pro: standard rack of stoppers and cams, 6-8 double-length runners.
anchors: gear

Photos