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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 146 total, 1/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route heads up the left side of the broken rocks under the big roof on the right side of the trad area and goes over the roof near the left side of the roof. Then it continues on airy exposed climbing, ending just to the left of p2 of Packrat Dihedral. A 50m rope is sufficient.

p1: scramble up 3rd and 4th class rock about 50' to an alcove and set your first belay here (short "pitch").

p2: climb crack systems heading up and slightly right, staying below the big dihedral, toward a weakness in the big roof; pull the roof (5.8 crux) and set a belay above the roof.

p3: go up and right to airy exposed face climbing (5.6) similar to p2 of Packrat Dihedral (small pockets/cracks for pro); continue up and anchor at a tree on top.

Location

The start of the route is toward the left side of the broken rock area beneath the big roof on the right side of the trad area. For orientation, p1 of Packrat Dihedral ends at the right side of the same roof.

For the descent, it is probably fastest to head up and left toward the cairned standard descent route that comes down the back.

Protection

pro: standard rack of stoppers and cams, 6-8 double-length runners.
anchors: gear

Photos

AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.8
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.8
this is really no harder than 5.6 minus the one very well protected move over the roof. the 3rd pitch is lots of fun on perfect cob Jun 1, 2010