Avg: 1.9 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||817 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
Tres Piedras Ranger District
El Rito Ranger District
p1: scramble up 3rd and 4th class rock about 50' to an alcove and set your first belay here (short "pitch").
p2: climb crack systems heading up and slightly right, staying below the big dihedral, toward a weakness in the big roof; pull the roof (5.8 crux) and set a belay above the roof.
p3: go up and right to airy exposed face climbing (5.6) similar to p2 of Packrat Dihedral (small pockets/cracks for pro); continue up and anchor at a tree on top.
For the descent, climb up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail. Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.