Type: Trad, 320 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 182 total · 1/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 12, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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This interesting route passes under a guillotine-like flake near the top of p1, hence the name.

p1: climbs a shallow depression in the face with some foliage, then up and right through a shallow dihedral with a bush at its base; continue up cracks and then under a flake into the guillotine cave. A 60 m rope will allow you to continue up and left above the flake to a good belay ledge. With a 50 m rope, set a belay at the flake, then scramble up to the ledge to set a belay for p2.

p2: Climb up toward a large red flake and pass between it and a "lollipop" shaped tree on steep protectable rock; continue up cracks to a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Chile Verde) or anchor off trees to the right. This pitch is better than p1.


The start is about 3 m right of the large juniper tree at the base of Refritos. The route is between Refritos (long black streak) and Techo al Derecho. For the descent, hike up and trend left until you see cairns marking the good descent trail that comes down the backside.


Trad rack of stoppers and cams to 3", 6-8 double length runners; 60 m rope recommended.


George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
This climb is probably not where shown in the "Taos Rock" photo; it should be to the right of the line. It's not a big deal; most of this portion of cliff is 5.5-5.6 by any route.

There's a 2-bolt belay station on a good ledge 60m up (not shown on the topo). May 9, 2010
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Yes, P2 is indeed better than P1.

P2 passes to climber's left of the lollipop tree, as shown in Gary Clarks topo. I found it hard to make out the red flake.

June 2011 note: A rope measured at 55 meters didn't make it to the bolts without 10 or 15 feet of easy simul-climbing. Jun 14, 2010