Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 412 total · 3/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 12, 2008 with improvements by Anna Brown
Admins: Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

This is the most direct line up to the big juniper tree on Juniper Ledge. These are full 50 m pitches.

p1: connect obvious crack systems while negotiating considerable foliage on the way to Juniper Ledge. 2-bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper Ledge. It is probably better to choose one of the other routes that ends on Juniper Ledge, such as Chile Verde or Refritos.

p2: fun pitch; move left above a big flake and climb the dihedral/gully that passes the formidable Juniper Overhang roof on its right side. Use some stemming moves to overcome the top of the gully and finish on exposed fun climbing to the top. Build a gear anchor or trend left to use the 2-bolt anchor at the top of Bring Me a Bucket.

Location

The start (to the right of the Juniper Overhang route) is near the bottom end of a downed log below the large juniper tree on Juniper Ledge.

To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.

Protection

trad rack of stoppers and cams to 3", 8 double length runners.

Photos