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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 212 total, 2/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

P1. Climb a shallow corner past a small, gnarled juniper to a small overhang. Climb through the overhang on the right side and continue past another small overhang to a spacious ledge (Juniper Ledge) with another tree on it. Belay at a pair of new bolts. Long pitch.

P2. Above the belay, climb the steep face and left facing dihedral capped by a small roof. Once over the roof, follow cracks to the top. Much of the second pitch is 4th class climbing. Belay at another pair of bolts near the top.

To descend, either scramble to the top and follow the trail down and left through the rocky gully, or rappel the route with a pair of ropes.

Location

Located near the center of the wall where the access trail intersects the base of the crag. Look for an obvious black water streak – Chile Verde starts at the left facing dihedral to the left of the streak.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Bolted belays.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.6
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.6
The 'correct' line for pitch 1 is probably not where shown in Taos Rock. It should be to the right, where #7 is. Since both books adopted Clarks' names, probably that resource is most accurate. Not that it's a big deal- it's all mostly 5.4-5.6 with intermittent pro. May 9, 2010
scotthsu
Los Alamos, NM
 
scotthsu   Los Alamos, NM
 
We did a slight variation of p2 today. Instead of going up the left facing dihedral, I stepped out climber's right onto the face and went up over a bulge and then another bulge (5.8) before some easier climbing up to the bolted anchors. This pitch has a lot of options, and although the rock is somewhat broken in places, I thought it was still worth doing. (Gary Clark's guide, under the Refritos route description, said the rock is poor quality and not worth doing.) Aug 9, 2009