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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Gary and Lynn Clark- 2003
Page Views: 209 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This fine pitch is the face between the second pitches of Gnarly and The Big E.
Really enjoyable face climbing protected by five bolts (placed in 2003 by Gary and Lynn Clark) and some small gear near the top. Classic El Rito face climbing!

Location

Access the route by climbing the first pitch of Gnarly or, better, climbing the first pitch of The Big E to the bolted anchor. From the bolted anchor move left and follow five bolts straight up the clean face and beyond to the top. It is possible to rappel from the bolted anchor atop P2 of Juniper Overhang to the bolted anchor atop P1 of The Big E and then down to the ground. This requires two 60 ropes and some good rope pulling technique to avoid getting the ropes snagged in the numerous trees and bushes on the wall. Better to just take the standard trail down the backside of the wall back to the base.

Protection

Five bolts on smooth, hard to protect face climbing and then small cams and small nuts up higher. Continue straight up from the bolt line to belay from a large pine tree or traverse right to the bolted anchor atop P2 of Juniper Overhang.

Photos

Eddy Daly
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
Eddy Daly   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
Great route! Crux is just above 3rd bolt. Tenuous moves on slopy feet get you going again. Topped out to peals of thunder and rapped route to base. We made it off FR44 just before the sky opened up dumping marble-sized hail. The first rap is easy off the tree at top. Second is okay....snagging on brush a little, but got us out of there in the nick of time. Aug 31, 2009