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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area

Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cave Woman T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swollen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gary and Lynn Clark 2003
Page Views: 1,186 total, 11/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

In 2003, Gary and Lynn Clark put in 6 widely spaced bolts on this new route, which is essentially a p2 variation of Juniper Overhang.

p1 (access): Climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. You can also climb either of Juniper Direct (5.6), El Faralito (5.4), Chile Verde (5.6) or Refritos (5.6) to a 2 bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper ledge.

p2 (Bring Me a Bucket): If you anchor w/gear at the top of p1 of Juniper Overhang, climb straight above the belay ledge, following 3 bolts along a black water streak to the roof. Some people may wish to supplement the bolts with gear placements. If you anchor at the 2 bolt belay station on the right end of Juniper ledge, then traverse left for a bit and then head up toward the first bolt. The climbing gets thin just below the roof (5.9). The roof itself is well protected with a bolt just above the lip. The climbing gets easier above the roof with 2 more widely spaced bolts. Continue following the bolt line to a 2-bolt anchor. The final headwall is fun and exciting.

Location

The start of p1 of Juniper Overhang is about 20 ft. to the right of Big E, about midway along a fallen log on the ground. There's some vegetation heading up about 70' to a rectangular cutout in the rock.

For p2 (Bring Me a Bucket), start from either the left or right side of Juniper ledge, depending on which route you climbed for p1.

For the descent, hike left from the anchors and then scramble/hike up for about 2-3 minutes until you see cairns for a good descent trail.

Protection

For p1, you will need a set of stoppers and cams to 3" and 6-8 double length runners. The Bring Me a Bucket Route itself is protected by 6 bolts, with the 4th bolt right on the lip of the roof.

The very top of the route has a bolted anchor. You will need gear for the middle belay if you climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. Otherwise, there is a bolted belay on the right side of Juniper Ledge.

Photos

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