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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area
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Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cave Woman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swollen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Gary and Lynn Clark 2003 |
| Page Views: | 2,335 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning
Details
Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
In 2003, Gary and Lynn Clark put in 6 widely spaced bolts on this new route, which is essentially a p2 variation of Juniper Overhang.
p1 (access): Climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. You can also climb either of Juniper Direct (5.6), El Faralito (5.4), Chile Verde (5.6) or Refritos (5.6) to a 2 bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper ledge.
p2 (Bring Me a Bucket): If you anchor w/gear at the top of p1 of Juniper Overhang, climb straight above the belay ledge, following 3 bolts along a black water streak to the roof. Some people may wish to supplement the bolts with gear placements. If you anchor at the 2 bolt belay station on the right end of Juniper ledge, then traverse left for a bit and then head up toward the first bolt. The climbing gets thin just below the roof (5.9). The roof itself is well protected with a bolt just above the lip. The climbing gets easier above the roof with 2 more widely spaced bolts. Continue following the bolt line to a 2-bolt anchor. The final headwall is fun and exciting.
p1 (access): Climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. You can also climb either of Juniper Direct (5.6), El Faralito (5.4), Chile Verde (5.6) or Refritos (5.6) to a 2 bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper ledge.
p2 (Bring Me a Bucket): If you anchor w/gear at the top of p1 of Juniper Overhang, climb straight above the belay ledge, following 3 bolts along a black water streak to the roof. Some people may wish to supplement the bolts with gear placements. If you anchor at the 2 bolt belay station on the right end of Juniper ledge, then traverse left for a bit and then head up toward the first bolt. The climbing gets thin just below the roof (5.9). The roof itself is well protected with a bolt just above the lip. The climbing gets easier above the roof with 2 more widely spaced bolts. Continue following the bolt line to a 2-bolt anchor. The final headwall is fun and exciting.
Location
The start of p1 of Juniper Overhang is about 20 ft. to the right of Big E, about midway along a fallen log on the ground. There's some vegetation heading up about 70' to a rectangular cutout in the rock.
For p2 (Bring Me a Bucket), start from either the left or right side of Juniper ledge, depending on which route you climbed for p1.
To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
For p2 (Bring Me a Bucket), start from either the left or right side of Juniper ledge, depending on which route you climbed for p1.
To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
Protection
For p1, you will need a set of stoppers and cams to 3" and 6-8 double length runners. The Bring Me a Bucket Route itself is protected by 6 bolts, with the 4th bolt right on the lip of the roof.
The very top of the route has a bolted anchor. You will need gear for the middle belay if you climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. Otherwise, there is a bolted belay on the right side of Juniper Ledge.
The very top of the route has a bolted anchor. You will need gear for the middle belay if you climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. Otherwise, there is a bolted belay on the right side of Juniper Ledge.
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