Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gary and Lynn Clark 2003
Page Views: 1,631 total · 12/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008 with improvements by Anna Brown
Admins: Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

In 2003, Gary and Lynn Clark put in 6 widely spaced bolts on this new route, which is essentially a p2 variation of Juniper Overhang.

p1 (access): Climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. You can also climb either of Juniper Direct (5.6), El Faralito (5.4), Chile Verde (5.6) or Refritos (5.6) to a 2 bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper ledge.

p2 (Bring Me a Bucket): If you anchor w/gear at the top of p1 of Juniper Overhang, climb straight above the belay ledge, following 3 bolts along a black water streak to the roof. Some people may wish to supplement the bolts with gear placements. If you anchor at the 2 bolt belay station on the right end of Juniper ledge, then traverse left for a bit and then head up toward the first bolt. The climbing gets thin just below the roof (5.9). The roof itself is well protected with a bolt just above the lip. The climbing gets easier above the roof with 2 more widely spaced bolts. Continue following the bolt line to a 2-bolt anchor. The final headwall is fun and exciting.

Location

The start of p1 of Juniper Overhang is about 20 ft. to the right of Big E, about midway along a fallen log on the ground. There's some vegetation heading up about 70' to a rectangular cutout in the rock.

For p2 (Bring Me a Bucket), start from either the left or right side of Juniper ledge, depending on which route you climbed for p1.

To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.

Protection

For p1, you will need a set of stoppers and cams to 3" and 6-8 double length runners. The Bring Me a Bucket Route itself is protected by 6 bolts, with the 4th bolt right on the lip of the roof.

The very top of the route has a bolted anchor. You will need gear for the middle belay if you climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. Otherwise, there is a bolted belay on the right side of Juniper Ledge.

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