Avg: 2.7 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Gary and Lynn Clark 2003|
|Page Views:||1,631 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008|
|Admins:||Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski, Jason Halladay|
p1 (access): Climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. You can also climb either of Juniper Direct (5.6), El Faralito (5.4), Chile Verde (5.6) or Refritos (5.6) to a 2 bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper ledge.
p2 (Bring Me a Bucket): If you anchor w/gear at the top of p1 of Juniper Overhang, climb straight above the belay ledge, following 3 bolts along a black water streak to the roof. Some people may wish to supplement the bolts with gear placements. If you anchor at the 2 bolt belay station on the right end of Juniper ledge, then traverse left for a bit and then head up toward the first bolt. The climbing gets thin just below the roof (5.9). The roof itself is well protected with a bolt just above the lip. The climbing gets easier above the roof with 2 more widely spaced bolts. Continue following the bolt line to a 2-bolt anchor. The final headwall is fun and exciting.
For p2 (Bring Me a Bucket), start from either the left or right side of Juniper ledge, depending on which route you climbed for p1.
To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
The very top of the route has a bolted anchor. You will need gear for the middle belay if you climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. Otherwise, there is a bolted belay on the right side of Juniper Ledge.